Here is the absolute best carburetor rebuild guide that I've seen anywhere. The detail he goes into is way more than I'm willing to go. I find it good information for understanding how it all comes together, but I'm not willing to go that far. It is a very good read.

IMO, I think you'll be fine with the small gaps that you've got.

https://litetek.co/Guide_Keihin_Rebuild.html

 

@IDoDirt thx a lot. will read it before reassembly. i will update with some pics

 

reassembly completed set pilot screws to standard turns. carb sync thrust spring in between #3 and #4 carb was tricky. placing it an angle and then pressing worked well.

do you hand tight these nuts too ?



manual recommends
top shaft - 10Nm
bottom shaft - 5Nm

i tightened them and applied a bit more torque to both. everything works fine. but small breather T joints are quite hard to rotate. have i tightened the nuts too much ? fuel T and large breather T are working fine. throttle shaft linkage and sync screws work fine too.

also these two plastic washers are missing in my choke system. i think they were missing last time i cleaned this too.



i'll try to find two washers and fit them later

have to bench sync now. will do and update thx a lot.

 

The width of the carburetors sets the distance between them. You can't get them any closer. Maybe a little silicone grease on the O rings, but nothing to worry about. they don't move while being used, they only sit there and stay sealed. Nice job. Hand tight on the nuts is good. The plastic washer are shaped like top hats only not as tall. So basically they have a shoulder that sets a gap to prevent the screw from being to tight so the bracket can move back and forth.

 

@IDoDirt thx a lot. your help is much appreciated
yea will leave those T joints since they don't move while being used. i searched those washers with their part number and they are hat shaped washers as you mentioned above. will try to find and install.

hope i have installed the thrust spring correctly. all 3 sync screws work fine



also this is the choke slider return spring



as you can see the exterior of my carb body doesn't have a shiny look.



it has a dull look with dark gray spots. well it's about the appearance but it's great if i can make it shiny. no matter how hard i tried with the carb cleaner it didn't remove those spots. not going to try it now but if someone can suggest me a good method to make it shiny it would be great may be a good chemical or a polishing method.

thx again and will update with the bench sync.

 

Very nice job, both in cleaning and documenting everything.

Carb cleaner won’t take away the grey. You would need a metal polish for that. Since they are aluminum they will clean up very nicely if you are so inclined.
I’ve never gone through the effort to do since they are tucked away underneath everything if I had a naked bike and pod air filters I might.

 

thx a lot. very much appreciate your help yea will try it next time.

 

this might not be directly related to the carb i'm working on but i've noticed two interesting things in Honda manuals regarding carbs.

when it comes to pilot screw settings some books mention a different setting/turns under "California Type", "Canada Type" or "UK Type".




does that mean the relevant state or country had a different emission regulation back in those days or is it something to do with its weather or elevation ?

also most of the inline4s have same size idle jets. but they have two different type main jet sizes. so far i've seen these two setups( jet sizes are for example only ).


even though the main jets come in two different sizes the jet needle size ( part number ) is same in all 4 carbs. also air jet in the main circuit appears to be in same size. it's quite interesting.

thank you.

 

hi. yesterday i did my bench sync.also old spark plugs were taken out. here's a pic



i think it was running rich. so i'm hoping to reduce my pilot screw turns by 1/8 or 1/4 turns before fitting it to the bike. will update soon. thank you.

 

The plugs don't look great, but they also don't look terrible depending on how old they are. #4 looks the most worrisome. I wonder if it wasn't tight enough.
On adjusting the pilots, if you have a decent bench tach they are of help. The manual states to adjust each pilot individually until the RPM no longer increases, then back it off by 50 RPM. Then adjust your idle adjust **** to 1,200 RPM then repeat on each of the carbs. The tack on the bike isn't sensitive enough to allow for this though.