Hi I suppose the best method of cleaning bits would be an ultrasonic cleaner with carb cleaning solution made for the purpose I don't have one YET but small ones are not too expensive and people clean whole carbs in them and for what I've seen they come out like new so to that end I will be buying one the one I'm opting for is £160 15 litre capacity but I don't have the spare money yet. The o rings on the fuel connection tubes leaked like a sieve when I recommissioned my bike so I had to dismantle the carbs and fit new o rings I put them in dry from memory to ensure a fuel tight seal but I don't suppose it matters as a thin smear of rubber grease will get dissolved by the fuel anyway. I agree with the other reply regards tube thats stuck don't distort it by too rough handling or you'll be in bother. I didn't note your bike model but mine a 1989 600fk was bench set on carbs with new chinese jets and overhaul kits fitted for not much money one point to note was the idle air screw is set at 2 1/2 turns out from seated not the 2 1/4 stated in the Clymer manual the dealer works manual I have has a supplement instructing the 2 1/2 setting. Hope this helps good luck AL.

 

@IDoDirt oh i think they become hard and lose their rubber characteristics over time. thx for the pics
@131commando thx a lot for your detailed explanation. very useful

 

Yes they do. They become brittle and will break easily. It's easy, while working on a motorcycle (an older one like these) and you bump or move the fuel line. The next time you run it, you have fuel leaking all over the place. I've seen it happen and heard people on here talk about it. That's why I always recommend taking the carbs off the rails and at a minimum, make sure these O rings are in good shape.

 

i cleaned the jets, pilot screws, choke plungers etc. that black residue is still on the pilot screws and the choke plungers. so i'm going to polish them as previously suggested.



thx

 

I'll typically use a portable drill to hold onto the pilot screw head. Then I can polish the business end.



This is how the slow jet should look. Nice clear circular hole when it's clean. It's tiny for sure, but you should be able to see light through it.

 

@IDoDirt thx a lot for the pics. yea will do.
ordered 4 new float bowl gaskets. planning to clean the carb bodies next. will update thx again

 

managed to clean #3 and #4 carb bodies.
took this pic before cleaning. this is the hole where jet needle rests. i think it's called emulsion tube or needle jet. it looks like made out of brass and also non removable. doesn't it wear over time just like the other removable parts ?



thank you

 

No it doesn't wear. The Jet Needle moves in and out of that hole and meters the flow of fuel that comes out. However it does not plug it.

 

@IDoDirt thank you

 

finished cleaning all 4 carb bodies also cleaned the two shafts. top shaft is shiny and in a good condition. bottom shaft had some rust. i used a fine grit sand paper to remove those rough spots



also i had one damaged float bowl screw. bought a new phillips screw ( same thread size and thread length ) and a washer. but it appears that the OEM screws use something called a "split lock washer".



new washer i bought was just a normal washer. hope it's ok to use it. i tried to salvage the split washer from the OEM screw but i couldn't remove it. may be there's a specific tool to remove those.

thank you.