Hello i'm ready to clean my carbs again after several years. apart from the other carb parts this time i removed the choke plungers too. also split the 4 carbs apart so i can replace the Orings at the fuel tubes and breather tubes. i have a few questions

1- i haven't started cleaning yet but as you can see i have some carbon or something on my choke plungers. choke lever was working but not smooth. so after cleaning this plunger with carb cleaner should i apply metal polish to make its surface smooth/shine ? i just asked since it has a sliding movement each time we pull the choke lever



2- my pilot screws and the jet needles have those slight carbon residue on their surfaces. is it a bad idea to apply metal polish on them ?

3- when reassembling the 4 carbs together do you attach fuel and breather tubes first and then install those three sync screws? like we see in this picture
manual has all the details but doesn't specify about the sync screw removal / installation when splitting and reassembly..

4- before splitting them apart i removed those three sync screws with their springs from relevant carb bodies. so after reassembly do i need to bench sync first before the actual manometer sync ?

thank you very much

 

1- i haven't started cleaning yet but as you can see i have some carbon or something on my choke plungers. choke lever was working but not smooth. so after cleaning this plunger with carb cleaner should i apply metal polish to make its surface smooth/shine ? i just asked since it has a sliding movement each time we pull the choke lever.

• I polish them every time I remove them. I like them operating as smooth as butter.

2- my pilot screws and the jet needles have those slight carbon residue on their surfaces. is it a bad idea to apply metal polish on them ?

• Same as above, polish away.

3- when reassembling the 4 carbs together do you attach fuel and breather tubes first and then install those three sync screws? like we see in this picture
manual has all the details but doesn't specify about the sync screw removal / installation when splitting and reassembly..

• I install the fuel and breather tubes last. It makes it easier to access the sync screws and springs.

4- before splitting them apart i removed those three sync screws with their springs from relevant carb bodies. so after reassembly do i need to bench sync first before the actual manometer sync ?

• Installing the sync screws back in is not difficult. Installing the spring that keeps the tension against that screw can be a little challenging. Of course it depends on the carburetors you're working on naturally. The upper one that pushes against the plate is the one I'm referring to. I don't do a "bench sync" other than visually making sure that each of the carburetors is opening at the same time and amount.

 

To add on to what @IDoDirt stated concerning the springs, I will take a length of dental floss and run it through a coil or two of the springs. I do this simply because the springs can take flight under uneven pressure The floss kind of tethers the spring so it doesn't launch across the shop and under you bench. It is very easy to unravel it after the spring is properly in place.

I do differ in that I perform a bench sync. I don't think either way is right or wrong, it's just a matter of preference.

 

I just do it visually, because I have the gauges to do on the bike once it's installed and running.

 

The primary reason I bench sync is hopefully minimize the time bent over the bike when I'm performing the sync. For some reason that particular angle is murder on my lower back.

 

@IDoDirt thank you very much for the details. will follow that. appreciate your help
@hamlin6 thx a lot. will try to do that trick when installing those springs and do a bench sync.

this is the first time i split the carbs apart. everything was successful. i have a small problem. this dowel pin on the #2 carb is sezied. had some corrosion there. applied WD40 then wrapped a cotton rag and tried to pull it with a pair of pliers. but it didn't work. applied WD40 again and kept aside. will try again later. if you have better suggestions removing this dowel pin kindly let me know.



also do you apply silicone grease on the fuel / breather tube Orings ? thx

 

If it doesn't come out, don't sweat it. If is a very close fit and you don't want to damage the end that you're pulling on. If the exposed end gets bent, it might not go into the other carburetor. Then you'll be forced to remove it and replace it.

 

@IDoDirt thank you. i'll do so. that metal shaft which goes through those dowel pins had some corrosion. i think that's the reason.

 

i had time to clean some parts. while cleaning fuel and breather tubes i noticed that two Orings on the fuel tubes are not in good condition. even though it wasn't leaking i think it was a good decision i made to disassemble and check them.

 

Here is what I commonly see on these particular O rings.