Seems like you're making good progress. Nice job.

 

@IDoDirt thank you

bought the Oring set for fuel and breather lines



i have a few questions on reassembling the carb

1- i had a hard time loosening these phillips screws on my float bowl side and diaphragm cover side. i think last time i have tightened them too much. do you normally hand tight them using the screw driver ?





2- jet needle washer has a flat side and a round/smooth side. does it matter which side faces which ?



3- do you normally apply a light coat of silicone grease on those fuel and breather line Orings ? i'm planning to apply a light coat.

4- do you assemble 4 carb bodies together first and fit the parts like jets, needles etc later ?

thx a lot

 

1- i had a hard time loosening these phillips screws on my float bowl side and diaphragm cover side. i think last time i have tightened them too much. do you normally hand tight them using the screw driver ?

• They need to be snug and just hand tight. I know what you mean, I've had to use Vice-Grips on the heads of ones that I've purchased in order break them lose.

2- jet needle washer has a flat side and a round/smooth side. does it matter which side faces which ?

• I don't think it matters. For me, I put the flat side up towards the vacuum slide. They are slightly larger around than the Jet Needle. This way the Jet Needle is sitting on the face of the washer.

3- do you normally apply a light coat of silicone grease on those fuel and breather line Orings ? i'm planning to apply a light coat.

• Yes I do. To all the O rings and the edge of the Vacuum Diaphragm. This helps hold it in place and lets it slide a little as I put the top cover on it.

4- do you assemble 4 carb bodies together first and fit the parts like jets, needles etc later ?

• Yes for the most part. I put the bowls on without the gaskets while I'm handling them as I assemble them onto the rails as well as trying to fit the carb sync tension springs back into place. When they're back on the rails, I'll then put the jets, float and vacuum slide in. In reality I don't think it really matters what order you do it in.

 

@IDoDirt thank you so much. those details are very useful.

 

hello. i'm going to install those rubber intake manifolds to the engine. people suggest to heat them or put them in hot water before installation so they become more pliable. do you normally heat them or put them in hot water when you reuse the old intake manifolds ?




thank you

 

If they are new, I’ve never seen the need to do anything. They will go on much easier than the old ones came off. If they are old, I suggest buying new ones.

 

thank you

 

hello. i installed the rubber intake manifolds with their top and bottom clamps. before the reassembly i'm watching some videos and written tutorials. i have a small question.

i put an intense light behind my butterfly valves which are currently in fully closed position. light is visible in some areas like you see in below picture. this #4 carb has the most and the valve is kind of sticky sometimes. other three are quite smooth.



so is this normal ? does this indicate a wear or a warping ? do they usually wear or warp over time ?
bike had been running fine for the last couple of years. only one cylinder was runnig slightly cold at idle recently. that's why i decided to clean this. but all of my butterfly valves have these small gaps around them. only visible when i put an intense light behind the butterfly valves.

also there's a black color bushing thing at the center of the butterfly valve ( i marked them with two white arrows ). as you can see the right side is more visible than the left side. is this normal ?

i use OEM air filter all the time. i guess in an ideal condition there shouldn't be any light visible. i just need to know what causes this. could someone please eleborate this for me. thank you

 

Are the carburetors attached together currently, or are they separated. It appears that the Butterfly plate and shaft are more to the left. It's possible the bushings that the shaft is running through are worn. I would say that servicing those components are beyond the range of your DIY operation. Those screws are staked so they don't come out from vibrations and get sucked into the engine. You'd need to be able to replicate that if you go down that route. I'd look to see if there was anything applying pressure to the shaft that is causing it to be pushed to one side.

 

hi @IDoDirt they are still separated. it hasn't been reassembled yet. i think that bushing thing is actually the shaft itself. saw a few examples and it appears that there are two seals and some washers inside the carb body. may be they are a bit worn now.
i've got some pics i took before disassembly. i can see the same alignment of the shafts there too. so i think it was there even before disassembly

this is #3 carb. throttle shaft is more to the left. but light comes from the left side too


this is #2 carb. throttle shaft is more to the left. light can be seen at both sides


this is #1 carb. throttle shaft alignment seems ok. but light can still be seen.


as i mentioned earlier my bike had been running fine and spark plug reading was good last time i checked. fuel system is in stock condition. stock exhaust, stock air filter, stock jet sizes, stock pilot screw settings etc.
but do these gaps affect the mixture ? specially at idle range is there a possibility of a lean mixture ? apart from the throttle shaft alignment do these butterfly valves wear over time ?

thx a lot.