Both headlights on at the same time.
#1
Both headlights on at the same time.
there have been alot of people trying to find out a way to accomplish this. So I thought I would let some people know that may be looking into modding thier headlight.
I already modded mine with HID bi-xenon projectors from a car, but would have done it with these if I had to do it again. It would be a lot less work involved.
these are the new R1 headlights. They are dual projectors that are bi-xenon. that means, both lights are on as low beams. When the high beam is activated, a shield inside the projector moves down to allow more light output and it allows the projector to shine further down the road creating the high beam. It would still take some fitment into your headlight housing, but I think they would work great.
Just throwing out some info in case anyone is interested and didnt know about the new R1's projectors.
here is a link to one on ebay for sale.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...id=p2759.l1259
I already modded mine with HID bi-xenon projectors from a car, but would have done it with these if I had to do it again. It would be a lot less work involved.
these are the new R1 headlights. They are dual projectors that are bi-xenon. that means, both lights are on as low beams. When the high beam is activated, a shield inside the projector moves down to allow more light output and it allows the projector to shine further down the road creating the high beam. It would still take some fitment into your headlight housing, but I think they would work great.
Just throwing out some info in case anyone is interested and didnt know about the new R1's projectors.
here is a link to one on ebay for sale.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...id=p2759.l1259
#3
anything can work. It would require modification to your existing headlight. your basically going to use your headlight housing and install the R1 Projectors inside of your housing. Its not something I would recommend to the novice. I was just simply pointing out another alternative as quite a few people have been modding their headlights. this would be a great mod as Im pretty sure they utilize the same H7 bulbs, so their wouldnt be a ton of rewiring to do.
#4
Right now I have a CBR F3 converted to an F4i. unfortunately, the F3 has a single dual-filement bulb. Since the f4i is 2 seperate H7 bulbs, the way I have it wired right now is for the low beam to be 1 bulb, and the high beam to be the other.
what would happen if i wired the highbeam directly to the battery and turned it on with a switch. and then hook the low beam on normally to the stock controls? that way when the low beam is on i can also switch on the highbeam and they would both be on.
the stock f3 electornics cannot handle both lights on at once thats why.
what would happen if i wired the highbeam directly to the battery and turned it on with a switch. and then hook the low beam on normally to the stock controls? that way when the low beam is on i can also switch on the highbeam and they would both be on.
the stock f3 electornics cannot handle both lights on at once thats why.
#5
#6
I've heard that *could* cause damage. the electronics on my F3 cannot run 110W(2 bulbs X 55 each).
#7
I think your bike can handle the 110 watts of draw, just not your existing wiring harness. One way to do it is to use a relay for your low beam. Have the low beams main power supply directly from the battery and use an ignition hot as its input on the relay. Most bikes have an acc or ign tab in the fuse panel. Then when ever your key is on, so is your low beam and always will be on as long as your key is. Then wire up your high beam with the high beam side of your plug and you should be all set. the low beam will stay on all the time and the high beam will come on when you hit the high beam switch.
you can also use a relay to have high beam wire trigger the relay back to your low beam. but I think the above way is better as it does away with the risk of burning up your headlight harness.
Im not 100 percent sure of what the F3's output capabilities are, but I think they are high enough to run an additional 45 watts, (the original high is 65 watts... I think). Especially if your license plate light is unhooked, and or you have aftermarket led taillight, and or your have eliminated your front running lights.
you can also use a relay to have high beam wire trigger the relay back to your low beam. but I think the above way is better as it does away with the risk of burning up your headlight harness.
Im not 100 percent sure of what the F3's output capabilities are, but I think they are high enough to run an additional 45 watts, (the original high is 65 watts... I think). Especially if your license plate light is unhooked, and or you have aftermarket led taillight, and or your have eliminated your front running lights.
#8
your not powering the bulbs off the wiring harness, your powering the coil in the relay which will actually place less draw on your system because your rewire the headlights through the relay with heavier guage wire. the only concern possible is the stator not putting out enough to maintain the system and charge which should not be an issue.
#9
#10
hi there everyone im new to the site . i got a cbr1000fj and when its ticking over it sounds like it runs on 3 cylinders and when your going along on low revs it does not happen all the time is there something breaking down i put new plugs in last week only happened today
Anyway,
I would love to do bi-xenon's. I have a friend that has them on his and it makes a world of difference at night. Well worth the fabrication time IMHO.
Last edited by LingLing; 05-25-2010 at 10:13 PM.
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