battery linkage
#1
battery linkage
cbr 600 F 1993
did some work on the bike and bike did not get ridden for a few days. once I ride it again it was running terrible no punch at all. then noticed trouble starting till eventually the bike just died battery flat. charged batt but in a few day same thing. bought new battery and ran great, checked new batt and noticed it was losing charge. I disconnect the negative on the batt and hooked up multi meter to the negative lead and the neg batt terminal and I noticed it was using 5 amps. is this leakage ? I have no alarm or any other device that would drain batt. I then unplugged what I think is the rectifier and performed the same test , result was 0 no leak and noticed the 5 way female plug to rectifier was shattered and brown ie a couple of the connectors where exposed and close to each other.
could this be the culprit?
also please look at pic and let me know if the unit is the rectifier
any thoughts would be appreciated
did some work on the bike and bike did not get ridden for a few days. once I ride it again it was running terrible no punch at all. then noticed trouble starting till eventually the bike just died battery flat. charged batt but in a few day same thing. bought new battery and ran great, checked new batt and noticed it was losing charge. I disconnect the negative on the batt and hooked up multi meter to the negative lead and the neg batt terminal and I noticed it was using 5 amps. is this leakage ? I have no alarm or any other device that would drain batt. I then unplugged what I think is the rectifier and performed the same test , result was 0 no leak and noticed the 5 way female plug to rectifier was shattered and brown ie a couple of the connectors where exposed and close to each other.
could this be the culprit?
also please look at pic and let me know if the unit is the rectifier
any thoughts would be appreciated
Last edited by horse_power777; 10-13-2013 at 12:07 AM.
#2
The image shows a rectifier yes. I suggest you have a fried one. Check the connector under your seat for heat damage. Once you have unplugged it, check for continuerty between the 3 yellows individually against earth . If theres continuerty between any, theres your problem. If it is the problem, beware this item gets very hot when worked, make sure you mount it to the bike properly before carring out any more work. Hope this helps a bit mate and let us know how you get on mate.
#3
The image shows a rectifier yes. I suggest you have a fried one. Check the connector under your seat for heat damage. Once you have unplugged it, check for continuerty between the 3 yellows individually against earth . If theres continuerty between any, theres your problem. If it is the problem, beware this item gets very hot when worked, make sure you mount it to the bike properly before carring out any more work. Hope this helps a bit mate and let us know how you get on mate.
#4
Clearly I'm not WES, but I'm sure he's indicating the wiring side of the connector with it unplugged from the R/R (Regulator/Rectifier). Check for continuity from each of the yellow wires to ground. If any of them show continuity, then your Stator would be bad. Also check each of the pins inside the R/R for continuity to ground as well. None should show continuity.
#5
#6
As it so happens, I have just replaced the old rectifier on my 2000 CBR600 F4. The rectifier on my F4 appears to be exactly the same as yours - it was a Shindengen shunt-based regulator/rectifier.
i did some research (on this forum and others) and decided I was much better off replacing it with a newer MOSFET regulator so went and got one. If you want to explore this path, look at Shindengen FH020AA Mosfet Regulator/Rectifier
He has some good videos. You are probably interested in the one which instructs you how to test a regulator. You will need a DMM (digital multimeter) but they are cheap to buy and good to have. The exact numbers aren't important - more that you have consistency.
The videos are at:
Roadstercycle Mosfet Install Videos
The shunt-style test how-to is at:
I have no affiliation with this site except that I'm a recent customer. I wired my new FH020AA in last night and have test ridden since. I'm getting 15V DC out of the regulator and 14.2V across the battery terminals.
Hope that helps!
i did some research (on this forum and others) and decided I was much better off replacing it with a newer MOSFET regulator so went and got one. If you want to explore this path, look at Shindengen FH020AA Mosfet Regulator/Rectifier
He has some good videos. You are probably interested in the one which instructs you how to test a regulator. You will need a DMM (digital multimeter) but they are cheap to buy and good to have. The exact numbers aren't important - more that you have consistency.
The videos are at:
Roadstercycle Mosfet Install Videos
The shunt-style test how-to is at:
I have no affiliation with this site except that I'm a recent customer. I wired my new FH020AA in last night and have test ridden since. I'm getting 15V DC out of the regulator and 14.2V across the battery terminals.
Hope that helps!
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