Would this one work ya think?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CLUTC...motiveQ5fTools

 

It looks like it should work. But honestly, I don't like how it clamps into place. Its nice since it will help prevent it from slipping in the grooves, but it is also putting stress on the hub where its not very strong. Most will tighten as you turn the hub and only put stress on the side of the grooves where its strong. the hub is very strong around the perimeter, but compression across its not as strong. Plus, it may not match the the groove just right and may need to be filed down to fit properly, but not a big deal, just something to consider and watch for. Just be very careful to not damage the grooves as the plates need to slide freely on them. Also, only clamp it tight enough to hold it in place, you don't want to compress the hub.

My disclaimer, I have never used that style, so it may work better than I think it would. But, I would certainly feel better about using that tool versus using an impact.

I would send them and email to make sure it will fit your clutch though.

A cheap alternative, if you find your clutch discs and plates are bad and are going to replace them, is to take a few of your old plates, buy some round rod, and weld up your own tool. I would take 3 plates, space them apart with the round rod in 4 locations, then weld a 1 to 2 foot long piece of rod to the end of the last plate. This will allow you to get the best possible coverage and holding without damaging anything. But again, it only works if you have access to a welder. If you hav access to a welder, and find your plates are good and don't want to replace them, call a dealership and see if they have any old used plates lying around. Many times they just scrap the stuff and will give them to you.

 

OK, so I popped the cover off today and took out the clutch discs, everything looks perfectly fine as far as I can tell. My clutch holder tool has not arrived yet so when it does I will be popping the clutch basket off. I suspect something behind it is the problem, I hope. I will be replacing the clutch discs, springs, clutch basket nut, and whatever else is easy to replace in there.

(Does it matter what order they go in? So as long as I put them back the way they were? Meaning all of them go into one slot except for the very last one goes in a different? I just dont know if some discs are meant to be stacked in a specific order, it doesn't look that way but just want to be sure)

 

As long as they go back in the same way, you'll be fine. You want them going back in the same spots because each plate is already worn to each disc. if you mix the order up, it can create everything to wear out really fast.

You are talking about putting the ones you removed back in correct?

Also, have you closely inspected your lifter bearing? If its bad, you should be able to spin it by hand and feel if there are any tight or flat feel spots as the bearing rotates.

Also, closely look at the basket to make sure there aren't any worn spots.

 

Thanks for the tips. Just an update I pulled the cover off and pulled the springs and clutch plates out and everything looks ok, although I'm not sure what I am looking for. I see no physical damage anywhere. My clutch holder tool just arrived so I will be pulling off the clutch basket next and I hope to find a beat bearing behind it. I don't know how the clutch/tranny works on bikes so I am just hoping it is not tranny related. Squidy, would you have a general explanation as to how the clutch and tranny are physically related? Also, the service manual says to "unstake" the nut, which look like the lip is bent into the shaft to keep it from slipping. I will obviously need a new nut, I guess I can just hammer a small chisel to 'unstake' it? Thanks. Also, I bought a new clutch kit and springs, as well as the gasket for the cover and I might just start replacing everything in there just to be safe. I'm one of those 'while I'm in there might as well replace' people cuz I hate doing things twice. I felt the bearing but I didn't notice anything weird, I will look again tonight. I wish I had some reassurance that this problem is fixable and one day I will ride this bike before the winter comes, so depressing.

 

As far as the clutch and transmission relation. I'm not really sure what you are referring to, but I'll try. sorry if Im saying things you already know. The main clutch hub (outer), has the driven gear on it, which is linked to the transmission, this hub spins freely around the crankshaft of the engine. The clutch inner, is what transfers the power from the crankshaft to the hub, then to the transmission. When the clutch is depressed, it is not in contact with the hub, therefore no power transfer, but with it released, it then links the clutch inner to the hub, and links the crank shaft to the transmission. I know, probably not what your looking for, but once you pull off your hub, you'll see how the power is transferred to the transmission.

As for the nut, you can do just as you plan. Just be careful to only bend up the nut and not damage the shaft. Be careful if your using a sharp punch. And yes, as you mentioned, you should replace the nut with a new one.

Hopefully something stands out as being wrong. It would suck to go through this to find out its in the transmission or something..

Also, you may want to post up some pics. Things that look normal may actually be worn out or damaged.

 

When it makes a noise like that with the clutch out in neutral, it's not the clutch plates or discs. Does it make the same noise when riding in 1st gear, or just freewheeling in neutral? It seems pulling the lever in on the clutch preloads the clutch basket and main shaft of the trans, muffling the sound. Does it grab when letting the clutch out, or engage smoothly? My educated guess (MMI training) is a bad bearing on the clutch basket or main shaft of the tranny. The counter shaft isn't involved until it's in gear, and power flows through the clutch.

 

I dunno if it makes the noise while riding because I never rode it. I couldn't, it would try to go forward and stall out every time. Although when I went to check the bike out it was on a stand and the guy started it and ran through the gears. I don't recall hearing make any other sounds then. I couldn't tell you know because the clutch is all apart on my garage floor. Everything looks normal, I've taken everything from the rear clutch basket out and I don't see anything abnormal. The inner clutch basket does have some marks on it though that seem strange, almost like a couple small dents but I don't see that making any difference unless it is throwing it out of balance. I will get some pics tonight. I bought new clutch discs and I'm thinking about getting a new inner clutch basket putting it back together and see what happens. If it is still the same then its getting towed to a shop I found by my work that said they would work on it. I dunno, I dont think the sound is being muffled, it goes completely away when the clutch lever is pulled in which would leave me to believe it is something clutch related. Once it's back together I will try it again. I don't really want to spend $100 on a inner clutch basket though if it is in vein.

 

I just want to clarify that the discs or plates shouldn't make noise if the clutch is working properly, but if any one of them is not fullly releasing, due to something like a warped plate, it could cause odd noises.


If the dents or marks are on the surface that the discs or plates glide on, mainly the splined portion of the basket, it very well could be the issue. A disc or plate can become lodged and cause the clutch to not fully disengage.

If the marks are the body in a no contact area, it shouldn't make a difference.

It will help if you post pictures of the marks. Many times during certain manufacturing runs, certain components are hit with punches to create witness marks. If the clutch supplier had any quality issues, Honda would have required them to inspect their parts 100 percent before shipment, or run them through a tester. If the baskets were run through a tester, a witness mark is stamped onto the part to show that the part went through the tester and passed. I don't know if its what you have, but pictures should show what the marks could be.

Have you inspected the plates to see if they fall within spec for thickness and flatness? If you have any warped ones, it could also explain some things.