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Vibration reduction

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Old Jul 24, 2013 | 01:48 PM
  #11  
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Hey Mattson,

I did have to remove my originals to install the ThrottleMeister throttle lock bar ends and weights... and they were a pain.

I don't have photos but I had to create kind of a "slide hammer" situation. Like the tool you use to pull dents on a car if you ever have seen that. I had a piece of heavy pipe just larger than my handle bar that I slid on first... then I used an oversized washer that the pipe couldn't pull past and a bolt that threaded into the bar weight through the washer. I then slid the pipe against the washer again and again hammering the weight OUT of the handle bar... can you imagine what I am saying? If not I can probably draw up a diagram and scan and post it.

I will say I think mine were extra hard to come out because those rubber parts in the diagram did not "slide" they ended up coming out in little pieces.

Let me know if you want a picture drawn.
 
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Old Jul 24, 2013 | 02:11 PM
  #12  
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No need, as a trucker I do own a very large slidehammer, just haven`t dared to use it cause it`s the caliber that can destroy any possible locking things I should have pushed in before starting to pound it out. So I`ll try with that, just wanted to make sure before destroying anything, thanks!
 
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Old Jul 24, 2013 | 03:35 PM
  #13  
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Yikes! Should I have put a disclaimer on my post I can't promise my way is right and won't destroy anything... but it sure worked for me!

Let us know how it turns out for you... I'm curious.
 
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Old Jul 24, 2013 | 08:07 PM
  #14  
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I love it when a post turns useful for multiple people. Thanks for all the help guys! I think I'll be able to install the ones my friend gave me, might just need to knock the inserts in the bars in a little.
 
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Old Jul 28, 2013 | 12:56 PM
  #15  
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Tried to pull the old bar weights out today:



Here`s my slidehammer, as you can see you can get some serious damage done with it (sorry for the blurry pic, my hand shook a bit)



After a good part of two minutes of bashing (and by bashing I mean really go ape**** mental on it) I managed to get it half way out...



...before I ripped the table from the wall!

So yes, it CAN be purrdy tight in there, as you can see they are pretty badly rusted so my advice would be to spray some penetrant into the pipe from the hole that the switch casing lock peg goes into and let it cure for a while...
 
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Old Jul 29, 2013 | 02:07 PM
  #16  
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Yikes Mattson! Mine weren't rusted in like that... but even in my case I am sure that some penetrating lubricant would have helped, good tip! I am not sure if the original designers ever imagined someone needing to pull those out, because they sure aren't "removal friendly"...

So you are going to try and reuse these on another set of bars? Is that what I understand? I'm curious if you are able to make that happen... and if does what you are hoping. Keep us posted!
 
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Old Jul 29, 2013 | 02:15 PM
  #17  
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That was the original plan until I remembered that my woodcraft riser clip ons have aluminum handle tubes with much thicker wall than the originals so they won`t fit cause the inner diameter is much smaller, basically tried to take it out just for laughs and to see what`s in there, and eventually managed to twist it out back and forth but yea it was might tight in there... So now I have to re-attach the table to the wall well, the vice corner was cracked anyway so I might just go and buy a large thick plywood sheet and make a new table altogether...
 

Last edited by Mattson; Jul 29, 2013 at 02:19 PM.
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Old Aug 5, 2013 | 11:12 AM
  #18  
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Vibrations feeding back through the bars come from a number of things. The number one cause of engine related vibrations is a power imbalance between cylinders. Weather it is from a spark plug poorly performing, lack of proper valve adjustment, or improper synchronization of the throttle plates. The first sign to me that i need to touch the tune is any buzz in the bars. I've had chains, tire balance, and other things do this but pulling in the clutch at highway speeds will let ya know if it is coming from the engine or not.
 
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Old Aug 5, 2013 | 02:13 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by Mattson
Tried to pull the old bar weights out today:

After a good part of two minutes of bashing (and by bashing I mean really go ape**** mental on it) I managed to get it half way out...

...before I ripped the table from the wall!

So yes, it CAN be purrdy tight in there, as you can see they are pretty badly rusted so my advice would be to spray some penetrant into the pipe from the hole that the switch casing lock peg goes into and let it cure for a while...
Did you try some spray lube into the handlebar before using that slide hammer??
 
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Old Sep 7, 2013 | 02:00 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by Mattson
jmeekman: Can you tell me how to get the darned thing OUT of the bar, I would like to transfer the original (far better) weights to my woodcraft clipons (given if they fit in the tubes) instead of some crappy Dice universal ones but can`t get them to budge!
If you haven't done this by now, the way to do it is to get a longer threaded bolt than the original one and a nut of the same thread and a socket that is the same diameter as the handlebar end.
Then, using the suitably sized socket that bears against the end of the handlebar and a couple of washers, thread the bolt into the insert that is inside the handlebar with the nut bearing onto the washers. Now tighten the nut on the bolt. This will start to draw the insert from within the handlebar and by spacing the socket out with suitable hollow pieces and continuing to tighten the nut you will draw the insert completely out. You will find two or three washer on the insert that may have gone hard and I think you should be able to obtain them from a Honda dealer. Hope it works out ok!
 
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