tire changers
#1
09-28-2006, 05:05 PM
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#3
09-28-2006, 07:39 PM
RE: tire changers
You can actually change tires with just a bead breaker, some spoons (tire spoons, not soup spoons) and a lot of sweat.
That being said, I have the harbor freight model w/motorcycle adapter. It makes tire changing easy enough that I wouldn't mind doing it for others.
With the Harbor Freight changer there are two mods that need to be done:
1. Get some platic tool dip and coat the "claws" that hold the wheel.
2. Get a short piece of rope to tie one spoke of your wheel to one "leg" of the changer. This removes any chance that the wheel will spin and scratch the lip.
If you have the cash, this is the one to get:
http://www.nomartirechanger.com/
In a couple of years I will upgrade to one of the "Classic" models.
A automatic changer is total overkill unless you change a ton of tires a day.
That being said, I have the harbor freight model w/motorcycle adapter. It makes tire changing easy enough that I wouldn't mind doing it for others.
With the Harbor Freight changer there are two mods that need to be done:
1. Get some platic tool dip and coat the "claws" that hold the wheel.
2. Get a short piece of rope to tie one spoke of your wheel to one "leg" of the changer. This removes any chance that the wheel will spin and scratch the lip.
If you have the cash, this is the one to get:
http://www.nomartirechanger.com/
In a couple of years I will upgrade to one of the "Classic" models.
A automatic changer is total overkill unless you change a ton of tires a day.
#5
09-28-2006, 08:22 PM
#6
09-29-2006, 06:12 AM
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#7
09-29-2006, 06:22 PM
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RE: tire changers
I have the harbor freight with the motorcycle attachment also. Works fine. The plasti-dip on the "grippers" is a must to keep from scratching the rim and I suggest buying at least 6 rim protectors. I also plasti-dipped my irons. Just can't be too safe -- scratches suck.
If you want a super cheap tire changer you can use a 15" car wheel and make an attachment that goes up through the hub and holds the motorcycle tire tight. Seen plenty of dudes change 'em this way at track days.
I posted a link up on a tire-changing thread a couple months ago that was full of info. The most important thing to remember is don't let the bottom bead up before you get the top side in. Otherwise it won't go. With 17" tire irons you should NEVER have to force anything. Light to medium pressure is all that's required. Forcing things makes **** break.
Oh, you'll need a balancer also. Easy to make or you can find 'em on e-bay for around $100.
If you want a super cheap tire changer you can use a 15" car wheel and make an attachment that goes up through the hub and holds the motorcycle tire tight. Seen plenty of dudes change 'em this way at track days.
I posted a link up on a tire-changing thread a couple months ago that was full of info. The most important thing to remember is don't let the bottom bead up before you get the top side in. Otherwise it won't go. With 17" tire irons you should NEVER have to force anything. Light to medium pressure is all that's required. Forcing things makes **** break.
Oh, you'll need a balancer also. Easy to make or you can find 'em on e-bay for around $100.
#8
09-29-2006, 06:26 PM
Admin Emeritus & MVN
RE: tire changers
I lied -- it was a PM not a post. Here it is with links to happy pictures:
That's the changer that I use. I also bought enough rim savers to go all the way around the tire. Note: don't buy from the link -- too expensive ... just wanted you to know what they looked like. Note II: Tie a damn string on the end of the rim savers -- otherwise you'll end up dismounting the tire you just mounted to remove a frikkin rimsaver from the inside .
Here's one dude's decent write-up changing a Goldthing tire LINK. I don't do it quite like that. You'll notice that he puts wood pieces on the top to keep it from setting the bead before he gets the other side mounted. Well with our low-profile tires it's a little different. After you get the bottom of the tire on the rim you'll need to remember to keep the bottom lip from beading up until you completely get the top edge mounted. Otherwise you will NEVER get the tire mounted. That's my only secret. Once you figure it out you'll be like the golden child of tire mounting.
And like the write-up I also don't use the very top portion -- I only use the clamping section. Just easier to me. And honestly, I can't figure out what the top part really does anyway .
Tire irons -- I use three 17" irons with a spoon on one end and the crinkly edge on the other. Before you do your first tire it's adviseable to buy some plastidip and put a couple coats on the ends of the tire irons. This not only prevents scratching from using the tire irons but also prevents scratching from when you drop the bastard due to the slippery frikkin soap . Don't ask me how I know this.
Instead of rags in the clamps I painted the plastidip on the clamps to keep from scratching the rims. Also put some on the bead breaker (angle at the bottom of the stand). When breaking the bead I use a once folded bath towel under the wheel -- this further reduces the chance of scratching.
You'll need to build a balancer also. I made mine out of aluminum channel at work and it looks damn near identical to the dudes in the write-up. Only tricks to balancing are keep it level (both ways) and be patient. I've had my hand mounted/hand balanced tires up to 228mph with no wobble or bumpiness.
I only use the big red "stick" for breaking the beads -- the tire irons are easier for me to mount/dismount the tires. REMEMBER: keep the bottom from beading up or you'll never mount the top. That is so important. If you're having to really put pressure on the top to get it to tuck in nicely then most likely the bottom is trying to bead up. I never measured it but just a rough estimate I'd say you'll never need to use more than 30# of force to mount the top. If you're putting more effort than that into in then either it's beading on the bottom or you're not using enough soap/lubricant. I use 20% dish deteregent, 80% water -- real high tech **** .
Can't think of anything else -- sorry this turned into a novel. If you have any more questions give me a holler and I'll do my best to answer.
Here's one dude's decent write-up changing a Goldthing tire LINK. I don't do it quite like that. You'll notice that he puts wood pieces on the top to keep it from setting the bead before he gets the other side mounted. Well with our low-profile tires it's a little different. After you get the bottom of the tire on the rim you'll need to remember to keep the bottom lip from beading up until you completely get the top edge mounted. Otherwise you will NEVER get the tire mounted. That's my only secret. Once you figure it out you'll be like the golden child of tire mounting.
And like the write-up I also don't use the very top portion -- I only use the clamping section. Just easier to me. And honestly, I can't figure out what the top part really does anyway .
Tire irons -- I use three 17" irons with a spoon on one end and the crinkly edge on the other. Before you do your first tire it's adviseable to buy some plastidip and put a couple coats on the ends of the tire irons. This not only prevents scratching from using the tire irons but also prevents scratching from when you drop the bastard due to the slippery frikkin soap . Don't ask me how I know this.
Instead of rags in the clamps I painted the plastidip on the clamps to keep from scratching the rims. Also put some on the bead breaker (angle at the bottom of the stand). When breaking the bead I use a once folded bath towel under the wheel -- this further reduces the chance of scratching.
You'll need to build a balancer also. I made mine out of aluminum channel at work and it looks damn near identical to the dudes in the write-up. Only tricks to balancing are keep it level (both ways) and be patient. I've had my hand mounted/hand balanced tires up to 228mph with no wobble or bumpiness.
I only use the big red "stick" for breaking the beads -- the tire irons are easier for me to mount/dismount the tires. REMEMBER: keep the bottom from beading up or you'll never mount the top. That is so important. If you're having to really put pressure on the top to get it to tuck in nicely then most likely the bottom is trying to bead up. I never measured it but just a rough estimate I'd say you'll never need to use more than 30# of force to mount the top. If you're putting more effort than that into in then either it's beading on the bottom or you're not using enough soap/lubricant. I use 20% dish deteregent, 80% water -- real high tech **** .
Can't think of anything else -- sorry this turned into a novel. If you have any more questions give me a holler and I'll do my best to answer.
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