Time to change that OIL
#11
10-28-2008, 01:04 PM
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RE: Time to change that OIL
some people replace the crush washers on their drain bolt too... i haven't in 25,000 miles. I probably should do that. Don't over-torque your drain bolt or your filter.
Remember to rub oil on the outside of your filter gasket before twisting it on.
Don't take off the fairings. Unnecessary step.
Other than that, I give this oil change plan a 4 thumbs up.
Remember to rub oil on the outside of your filter gasket before twisting it on.
Don't take off the fairings. Unnecessary step.
Other than that, I give this oil change plan a 4 thumbs up.
#12
10-28-2008, 01:10 PM
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#13
10-28-2008, 01:11 PM
RE: Time to change that OIL
ORIGINAL: jonld
You can do it but you will have oil all over the header and the air dam plastic aswell as the side plastics where they connect at the bottom in the front. I just changed mine Sunday as I always do. I highly suggest you remove at least one side. I just pulled the right side off. Your going to have to have a really low wide pan to catch the oil or some way of elevating the bike. The filter is going to leak plenty all over the headers still. Once you've changed it all out spray some cleaner on there and spray off with water hose. As for oil there is all kinds of arguments about it but I always run castrol 10-40w. I've been using the full synthetic(Black Bottle) in all my bikes for a couple of years now and its been great. I've also used Lucas aswell as many others. Just make sure the API label on the back does not say energy conserving on whatever oil you buy. Energy conserving additives have a tendency to mess up wet clutches.
You can do it but you will have oil all over the header and the air dam plastic aswell as the side plastics where they connect at the bottom in the front. I just changed mine Sunday as I always do. I highly suggest you remove at least one side. I just pulled the right side off. Your going to have to have a really low wide pan to catch the oil or some way of elevating the bike. The filter is going to leak plenty all over the headers still. Once you've changed it all out spray some cleaner on there and spray off with water hose. As for oil there is all kinds of arguments about it but I always run castrol 10-40w. I've been using the full synthetic(Black Bottle) in all my bikes for a couple of years now and its been great. I've also used Lucas aswell as many others. Just make sure the API label on the back does not say energy conserving on whatever oil you buy. Energy conserving additives have a tendency to mess up wet clutches.
I was going to buy those oil boxes you can use on cars to collect the old oil, but I don't know if the ground clearance will be enough so in that case I may have to take off the fairing. I looked over the service manual on how to remove the fairing and it looks like you just remove 6 bolts, what size socket does everyone use for the left/right fairing?
#14
10-28-2008, 01:19 PM
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#15
10-28-2008, 01:24 PM
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RE: Time to change that OIL
Not enough clearance has to be on stands for those collecting pans to get underneath If you have some one sit on the bike and hold it straight up you can bearly get one underneith if you want to do that. The fairing bolts if i recall correctly are alen 8mm or 5mm. Dont remember.
I wish i didn't have a full exhaust, i have to take the exhaust headers off every oil change
I wish i didn't have a full exhaust, i have to take the exhaust headers off every oil change
#16
10-28-2008, 03:01 PM
RE: Time to change that OIL
How do you catch all the oil out of the filter is if the fairing i still on?
You just need 10W-40. Any brand at any price will do the job. I can't remember the number but Bosch 3300 (or 3303 or something like that) will fit and it's like 4 bucks.
Anybody know the real amount of oil to put in? The manual says like 3.5 quarts but I'm pretty sure that is to much.
You just need 10W-40. Any brand at any price will do the job. I can't remember the number but Bosch 3300 (or 3303 or something like that) will fit and it's like 4 bucks.
Anybody know the real amount of oil to put in? The manual says like 3.5 quarts but I'm pretty sure that is to much.
#17
10-28-2008, 03:46 PM
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RE: Time to change that OIL
ORIGINAL: some guy #2
How do you catch all the oil out of the filter is if the fairing i still on?
How do you catch all the oil out of the filter is if the fairing i still on?
ORIGINAL: some guy #2
You just need 10W-40. Any brand at any price will do the job.
You just need 10W-40. Any brand at any price will do the job.
ORIGINAL: some guy #2
Anybody know the real amount of oil to put in? The manual says like 3.5 quarts but I'm pretty sure that is to much.
Anybody know the real amount of oil to put in? The manual says like 3.5 quarts but I'm pretty sure that is to much.
The 600RR's take a little bit less. 3.2ish.
#18
10-28-2008, 04:01 PM
RE: Time to change that OIL
Every time I put 3.5 quarts in the window is completely filled, as in over the lines. The bike is level when I check it. Any help?
So do you put foil over the headers or something to keep the trickle of oil off the engine? If it trickles out wouldn't you be wiping up oil until it empties (not much I know).
So do you put foil over the headers or something to keep the trickle of oil off the engine? If it trickles out wouldn't you be wiping up oil until it empties (not much I know).
#19
10-28-2008, 04:05 PM
RE: Time to change that OIL
I usually take some aluminum and fold it, stick it under the oil filter and it just lays on the headers. The oil will drip down onto and into the drip pan. I never have oil on the headers, well the first time and then it just burnt off. Not a big deal man. Easy to do and it will save you lots of $$$$. good luck.
#20
10-28-2008, 04:16 PM
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RE: Time to change that OIL
ORIGINAL: some guy #2
Every time I put 3.5 quarts in the window is completely filled, as in over the lines. The bike is level when I check it. Any help?
Every time I put 3.5 quarts in the window is completely filled, as in over the lines. The bike is level when I check it. Any help?