Time to change that OIL
#1
Time to change that OIL
Hey guys I'm trying to do an oil change on my 2002 F4i. Unfortunately I don't have any stands or much tools besides the one needed to take off the drain plug. I am going to be picking up a K&N filter and some synthetic oil (dunno which brand yet) but I've read that its possible to take off the oil filter without removing any fairings? I've done oil changes on my other cars but never on a bike yet so a little worried I might mess something up. If anybody has any advice on how to do it right it would be much appreciated.
Heres the steps I've got down so far (please feel free to add in any other suggestions..I'm going to be trying this without removing any fairings)
1. Get all the supplies (oil filter, oil, 12mm socket wrench, aluminum foil for the headers)
2. Start the engine and let it run for 3-5 minutes.
3. Turn off engine and wrap the headers with foil to prevent oil dripping on it
4. Locate drain plug on the bottom of the engine and place a oil collector box underneath and continue to remove the plug
6. Let the oil drain out
7. Twist off the old oil filter
8. After all the oil is empty, pour about 3.3 quarts of new oil in
9. Check the oil guage to make sure the oil falls between the 'high' and 'low' lines (on a flat surface)
10. Turn on the engine and let it run for a few minutes
11. Recheck the oil level on a flat surface
12. Clean up
Heres the steps I've got down so far (please feel free to add in any other suggestions..I'm going to be trying this without removing any fairings)
1. Get all the supplies (oil filter, oil, 12mm socket wrench, aluminum foil for the headers)
2. Start the engine and let it run for 3-5 minutes.
3. Turn off engine and wrap the headers with foil to prevent oil dripping on it
4. Locate drain plug on the bottom of the engine and place a oil collector box underneath and continue to remove the plug
6. Let the oil drain out
7. Twist off the old oil filter
8. After all the oil is empty, pour about 3.3 quarts of new oil in
9. Check the oil guage to make sure the oil falls between the 'high' and 'low' lines (on a flat surface)
10. Turn on the engine and let it run for a few minutes
11. Recheck the oil level on a flat surface
12. Clean up
#4
#7
#8
RE: Time to change that OIL
You can do it but you will have oil all over the header and the air dam plastic aswell as the side plastics where they connect at the bottom in the front. I just changed mine Sunday as I always do. I highly suggest you remove at least one side. I just pulled the right side off. Your going to have to have a really low wide pan to catch the oil or some way of elevating the bike. The filter is going to leak plenty all over the headers still. Once you've changed it all out spray some cleaner on there and spray off with water hose. As for oil there is all kinds of arguments about it but I always run castrol 10-40w. I've been using the full synthetic(Black Bottle) in all my bikes for a couple of years now and its been great. I've also used Lucas aswell as many others. Just make sure the API label on the back does not say energy conserving on whatever oil you buy. Energy conserving additives have a tendency to mess up wet clutches.
#9
#10
RE: Time to change that OIL
I take the right side paneloff as well... I don't have anything to lift the bike, so i ghetto rigged mine...behind my shed i dug a hole to fit the drain pan... rode overtop of it sothe bikesits right above the pan while someone holds the bike up for me. Hey....it works....