Starter turns over but bike will not start
#11
Hmm I'll check this. We took the cover off because the bike had been laid down and it was completely thrashed, so my friend wetsanded and painted it to look better. When we looked it seemed that all the wires were on there correctly but I will check again! Thanks for the replies guys.
#13
Also which pulse sensor the cam or ignition pulse?
edit: nvm, checked them both and all are connected. I really don't know wtf to do, everything has been checked and rechecked I even downloaded the service manual and went through that trouble shooting all day today with my friend. I even replaced the spark plugs, of course that didn't fix it. Do you think the ECU is bad?
edit: nvm, checked them both and all are connected. I really don't know wtf to do, everything has been checked and rechecked I even downloaded the service manual and went through that trouble shooting all day today with my friend. I even replaced the spark plugs, of course that didn't fix it. Do you think the ECU is bad?
Last edited by m3ds; 02-13-2010 at 09:29 PM.
#15
If the fuel pump is not priming, then it could be the BAS, or kickstand switch. To bypass the BAS unplug the connector and put a "jumper" wire in the two outter connectors on the plug. The BAS is located on the rear of the headlight right in the middle, which is why the headlight harness needs to be hooked up. As long as the bike is in neutral (make sure it is) then the k/s switch shouldn't make a difference, just when the stand is up and you put it in gear and it dies then you know that's faulty. You can also "hotwire" the fuel pump to make sure its working. Just hook it up right to the battery, and if it works then it ain't broke (duh)
#16
If the fuel pump is not priming, then it could be the BAS, or kickstand switch. To bypass the BAS unplug the connector and put a "jumper" wire in the two outter connectors on the plug. The BAS is located on the rear of the headlight right in the middle, which is why the headlight harness needs to be hooked up. As long as the bike is in neutral (make sure it is) then the k/s switch shouldn't make a difference, just when the stand is up and you put it in gear and it dies then you know that's faulty. You can also "hotwire" the fuel pump to make sure its working. Just hook it up right to the battery, and if it works then it ain't broke (duh)
#18
#19
Did you check the fuses? How bout the battery is it fully charged? Does the green neutral light come on? Raise the kick stand, if the neutral safety switch is faulty it will think its in gear and not let it start.Check the kill switch...Not just if its in the right position, but if its allowing the signal to pass when switched to the "run" pos. Also check the clutch switch on the perch. You'll need a multi-meter for that. If you know anyone w/ another F4i then try swappin ECUs.
#20
Do you have access to another f4i? If so try its ignition switch. The ignition switch has a zener diode in it that supplys like 8 volts to the ecu so that if someone tries to bypass it by hotwiring, it gives 12 volts and the ecu will not fire the fuel pump. I've had to fix 2 early f4i's this way. It used to be somewhat common but i havent seen or heard anything about it in awhile.