Setting sag
#2
RE: Setting sag
ORIGINAL: ta2av
Can sag be set properly on a 2004 F4i with stock springs for a rider that weighs 220 lbs?
Can sag be set properly on a 2004 F4i with stock springs for a rider that weighs 220 lbs?
So in short, I'm confident that you can set the suspension for a rider that weighs 220 lbs. I'm 200 lbs. with gear on and use the default suspension settings.
#5
#7
RE: Setting sag
Your probably going to need stiffer springs but give it a shot. From the factory, sportbike suspension is only good for about a 190lb or less rider. Quick run down- Spring Sag is the distance the fork and shock compress with a rider onboard compared with the fork and shock fully extended without rider on board.
1. Determine your fork and shocks fully extended measurement without a rider onboard. Get both wheels off the ground but not at the same time. You will be taking measurements in milli-meters.
2. Rear shock- measure distance from the axle nut vertically to a point on the bottom of the rear plastic with the rear tire in the air and no one onboard. Mark the point you used to measure on the plastic for later reference.Write down that measurement.
3. Front Forks- with front wheel in the air and the fork fully extended place tape measure from the bottom of the fork up to the bottom of the lower triple clamp as a reference point. Write down the measurement from the dust seal to the bottom of the fork.
4. Now do the same measurements with you and all your gear on. Obviously you will need a buddy to hold you up and a buddy to record the measurements.
5. Subtract the measurements of the rider on board from the measurements without you onboard and you have your two sag numbers.
6. Street riders should have around 30-35mm of sag and track riders should be around 25-30mm. If your numbers are higher than these you will want to increase spring preload on your shock and fork for a firmer more aggresive ride.
1. Determine your fork and shocks fully extended measurement without a rider onboard. Get both wheels off the ground but not at the same time. You will be taking measurements in milli-meters.
2. Rear shock- measure distance from the axle nut vertically to a point on the bottom of the rear plastic with the rear tire in the air and no one onboard. Mark the point you used to measure on the plastic for later reference.Write down that measurement.
3. Front Forks- with front wheel in the air and the fork fully extended place tape measure from the bottom of the fork up to the bottom of the lower triple clamp as a reference point. Write down the measurement from the dust seal to the bottom of the fork.
4. Now do the same measurements with you and all your gear on. Obviously you will need a buddy to hold you up and a buddy to record the measurements.
5. Subtract the measurements of the rider on board from the measurements without you onboard and you have your two sag numbers.
6. Street riders should have around 30-35mm of sag and track riders should be around 25-30mm. If your numbers are higher than these you will want to increase spring preload on your shock and fork for a firmer more aggresive ride.
#8
RE: Setting sag
The suspension on a 600 is generally set up for a rider weight of 170# (rider and gear - read that somewhere) -- Who the heck weighs that? Not I
Here's the thing you gotta think about: are you gonna race ***** to the wall 24/7 or would you like to save your nads and spine when traversing a bumpy road?
I have no illusions of grandeur. I'm never going to race my bike for $$ but I do want it to handle on the street as well as it can. So I've set it up semi-aggresive. It'll still rattle your teeth when bumping down the road but not nearly as bad as when it was set up insanely aggresive. And considering all the leaves, sand and car drippings on the road I rarely was able to use the firmer set-up anyway.
My personal opinion is that a 200#+ rider will need to crank on the preload a bit to keep from wallowing in the corners (even on real roads at sane speeds).
Here's the thing you gotta think about: are you gonna race ***** to the wall 24/7 or would you like to save your nads and spine when traversing a bumpy road?
I have no illusions of grandeur. I'm never going to race my bike for $$ but I do want it to handle on the street as well as it can. So I've set it up semi-aggresive. It'll still rattle your teeth when bumping down the road but not nearly as bad as when it was set up insanely aggresive. And considering all the leaves, sand and car drippings on the road I rarely was able to use the firmer set-up anyway.
My personal opinion is that a 200#+ rider will need to crank on the preload a bit to keep from wallowing in the corners (even on real roads at sane speeds).
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post