I am sure theres already been plenty of topics on this but I just, just got a flat and its cyber monday and I am really busy. I currently have pilot powers on both front and rear, my rear is a 180/55 zr17. stock rims. Is this the right rear tire configuration? Also what should I look for when someone does my rear tire install? They have to balance it and put a new stem on right? Or when I order the tire it comes with a new stem? Thanks guys!

 

That is the correct size tire. The tire will not come with a new stem. The installer should have one to sell you. It wont get replaced unless it's obviously bad or you request it to be. Depending on how old it is and in what condition its in, you may opt to replace it or not. I go through tires pretty fast, so I don't replace them each time. They should balance it for you as well.

 

thanks for the help, I was able to find some free time and searched up everything, I still have a few questions for those willing to help:

1. When someone says a metal valve, are they talking about the whole valve being metal or just the tip of the valve where the cap screws on? Is there an advantage to this over a plastic valve?

2.
i found the source of my leak, 3 very small holes all together in the center of the tire. Each thinner than mechanical pencil lead, each shining bright silver. What could they be? Glass and/or small pins? They are just very very small.

3. I am getting a new tire this weekend, could a patch or some slime help out for the remaining days?

4. when putting in frame sliders, is the torque needed for each side different than the stock manual specs? in the online service manual, page 221 it says the bolt is 29lbft and some other hollow cylindrical thing that goes there is 40 lbft.

5. for something like the rear axle nut or the engine bolt, is it safe to do the full hand tighten, 1/4 turn wrench technique? There are a few professional shops around my area that i have questioned, and some of these places told me they dont use torque wrenches when they do rear tire changes. This threw me off and made me wonder if dealerships even torque wrench tighten everything or do it by feel and experience.

6. someone with experience answer this please, what should I get for frame sliders? I first put on some all derlin sliders with no metal inserts, went down and it snapped right off, it did its job of protecting the frame which im happy. But should I get something like a vortex or woodcraft, they look like they would have problems in certain accidents and dont stick out too much from the bike. Here are the previous sliders I had: not the exact ones off this link but look just alike: HONDA CBR 600 F4 F4I Frame Sliders CBR600 1999-2006 Made in the USA | eBay

If you took the time to read this all thank you! I am a big lurker and these have been the biggest questions on my mind this month.

 

I don't know much about the metal valve, but I always prefer to get a new set of valve stems when I get a new set of tires

2 and 3. I've used fix a flat when I had 2 small tiny hols like the size of a staple in my tire and road to work for the next week until my new tires came in the mail. I didn't have any issues but I also left the 2 staples in the tire at the same time. It's possible those could be staples for housing equipment.

4. I did 29 and thread locker on my frame sliders and they're holding up fine.

5. I went to harbor freight and bought a torque wrench just for adjusting my own chain. When I get new tires I just have my mechanic mount and balance them and install them back on the bike just so he can check all of my bearings and axles in case of any damage. My mechanic just uses a power tool and does it by feel.

6. I bought cheap extended frame sliders off amazon.
and have no problem with them, they're alot longer then regular frame sliders and I love them because of the fact that I can rest my legs on them like a stunt cage but don't have the huge cage around my bike.

 

Hey chute thanks a lot for all of that! btw are those frame sliders all derlin, even at the base?

 

1. Metal stem vs all rubber.
2. No telling...anything & everything on the road surface these days. I saw a screwdriver in a truck tire sidewall once.
3. If the punctures are as small as you say, then a patch would work pretty well. If they are larger, patch & plug.
4. OEM torque is fine. The blue locktite as mentioned above is good insurance.
5. I would venture to say that most shops tighten the axle w/ hand tools (not torque wrench).
6. Get the best quality cut-sliders that you can afford...yes, Vortex, Woodcraft, Intuitive, etc.

Feel free to ask as many questions as you like. :-)

 

Thanks gotcbr!

3. Let it sit overnight and it deflated a lot but not too bad, from 42 psi to about 20 in 12 hours, wont even patch it, just inflate it with my friends bike pump whenever I have to ride. This will last me till the end of the week.

4. yeah blue loctites amazing, but I read somewhere that for certain bolts, like the engine mount bolt it should not be used. Was browsing forums last night, cant recall if thats exactly what was stated.

5. ive never heard of intuitive, I typed it in on google and all the results coming up were shogun sliders, am I missing something?

 

Intuitive Race Products here... Welcome to [Intuitive Race Products]- [Manufacturer of the finest Motorcyle Frame sliders in the Industry]. I have these on my RC51. They are excellent quality. Many of the track guys I know, use them as well.

As for the loctite...its not necessary, just insurance. BLUE loctite won't hurt anything. Don't use RED loctite. ;-)

 

just looked them up they look pretty good, pretty much the same as the current ones I had. I dont really notice any difference from the intuitive sliders and the other cheap derlin sliders, must all be internal.

 

^ Quality is often more than skin-deep. ;-)