Rear tire change..ran over a screw
#11
07-15-2011, 01:28 PM
Senior Member
#12
07-15-2011, 01:35 PM
February 2012 ROTM
U tube
Bro... Utube have some demo video, suggest to view before proceeding.
I apologize in advance but I just cant seem to find a good write-up with pointers on removing the rear tire and reassembling it!
I ran over a screw last week (middle of tread not side-wall) and the tire seemed to only lose about 2 psi a day..it gave me enough room/time to ride on it until I could get to cyclegear to replace it. Well, yesterday, BAM the screw shot out and I dropped to 0 psi within seconds...its funny bc I noticed the front just "dropping" into turns and I thought "chit! Did my fork seals go or did my forks bend somehow on this ride?" and then it hit me....wow...your back tire is a pancake.
Anyway, the bike is sitting in covered parking and after work today, I am taking the wheel off for the first time in which to bring into cyclegear for replacement.
Can someone give me a straight few sentances and pointers on the correct and easiest way to remove and then install the rear wheel? Thanks!
PS. I have a rear stand.
I ran over a screw last week (middle of tread not side-wall) and the tire seemed to only lose about 2 psi a day..it gave me enough room/time to ride on it until I could get to cyclegear to replace it. Well, yesterday, BAM the screw shot out and I dropped to 0 psi within seconds...its funny bc I noticed the front just "dropping" into turns and I thought "chit! Did my fork seals go or did my forks bend somehow on this ride?" and then it hit me....wow...your back tire is a pancake.
Anyway, the bike is sitting in covered parking and after work today, I am taking the wheel off for the first time in which to bring into cyclegear for replacement.
Can someone give me a straight few sentances and pointers on the correct and easiest way to remove and then install the rear wheel? Thanks!
PS. I have a rear stand.
#14
07-15-2011, 02:49 PM
Why would you adjust the chain clack before torquing the axle down? The chain gets adjusted while the rear wheel is on all the time; in fact you probably don't want the wheel to move when your adjusting the chain slack. But, yes, be on the stands when you adjust the slack.
Your axle NEEDS to slide back and forth while you are adjusting the chain slack...THATS HOW YOU ADJUST IT! When you turn the small bolts on the end of the swingarm those are moving the axle (thus the wheel and rear sprocket) back and forth, creating more and less tension...how will the axle slide if its torqued down??? 
If you try to turn those bolts hard enough while the axle is torqued down you may strip the threads or the bolts! Not a fun fix. Forgive me if we are thinking of different things or being sarcastic....but you need to adjust chain slack BEFORE torquing the axle.
#15
07-15-2011, 02:50 PM
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Scottsdale Arizona
Posts: 653
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Why is that bored? Honda125 358 sounds like he works in a shop and he seems to think torquing it very tight by hand would be an easy 69lb/tq..?
Btw bored, your a local guy here in AZ, I get everything and esp tires from cyclegear but today the bike is in central phoenix so I'm getting the tire at "Wheel Guys" on Mcclintock/16th street. Good price on it and seems reputable. They said if I just brought the bike in its on $20 for the labor! But dang, I cant get it the 2 miles in there! Dont think itl keep psi for more than 1 minute
Btw bored, your a local guy here in AZ, I get everything and esp tires from cyclegear but today the bike is in central phoenix so I'm getting the tire at "Wheel Guys" on Mcclintock/16th street. Good price on it and seems reputable. They said if I just brought the bike in its on $20 for the labor! But dang, I cant get it the 2 miles in there! Dont think itl keep psi for more than 1 minute
#16
07-15-2011, 05:25 PM
Senior Member
I could have sworn torquing the axle bolt only kept it from moving left-right, not front back.
My bad.
Last edited by vegas_rebel; 07-15-2011 at 05:29 PM.
#17
07-15-2011, 05:25 PM
Senior Member
Yes you can get 69lbs/ft by hand but you won't know what torque its at. If your doing it just to get somewhere where you can torque it properly thats one thing. Not everything needs to be torqued IMO but the axle nut is one that does.
As for that shop, I've never even heard of them. What kind of tire did you get?
As for that shop, I've never even heard of them. What kind of tire did you get?
#18
07-16-2011, 01:23 PM
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Scottsdale Arizona
Posts: 653
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Yes you can get 69lbs/ft by hand but you won't know what torque its at. If your doing it just to get somewhere where you can torque it properly thats one thing. Not everything needs to be torqued IMO but the axle nut is one that does.
As for that shop, I've never even heard of them. What kind of tire did you get?
As for that shop, I've never even heard of them. What kind of tire did you get?
. Wheel Shop on mcdowell/16th is a def. recommendation for tires. I run reg ole pilot powers. He was only going to charge me $20 labor if I brought it in on the bike. He also said that while they dont "recommend it" they have not had an issue with "tubing" (placing an intertube inside the tubeless tire) for small flats on sport Z rated tires...I kept my old pilot power (as theres 70% tread left) in case I grab another nail and want to tube one of em...
Also, regarding adjusting chain slack with the axle nut torqued...although it may not be "ideal" Ive done it before....heck, I did it yesterday...no issues with it...
#19
07-16-2011, 01:56 PM
#20
07-17-2011, 12:13 PM
Senior Member
If the axle is torqued correctly you cannot move it with the axle adjusters no matter how much torque you use, its the entire point of torqueing the axle down. If you could then the tire/axle would move under hard acceleration/braking. If somehow you can move the axle after its torqued you have something very wrong going on.
As for tubes in a tubeless tire, thats absurd. Put a plug or patch [even better a plug/patch combo] thats actually designed for a radial tire. Tubes inside a radial will rub and get a hole VERY quickly. I would never ever do it and no tire manufacturer will ever say its ok. Im sure someone out there has done it and its worked for them but that doesn't mean its safe or a good idea.
As for tubes in a tubeless tire, thats absurd. Put a plug or patch [even better a plug/patch combo] thats actually designed for a radial tire. Tubes inside a radial will rub and get a hole VERY quickly. I would never ever do it and no tire manufacturer will ever say its ok. Im sure someone out there has done it and its worked for them but that doesn't mean its safe or a good idea.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
