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rear brake

Old 08-22-2011, 01:51 PM
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Default rear brake

so today is about the second full week of owning my 06 f4i and i had changed the brakes, problem is the the pad was worn down to the metal and i'm not sure if it affected the rotor itself, also i do not own the manual so i was wondering what the torque specs for the mounting bolts would be, currently i have the 14mm bolt at 40 ft/lb and the 12mm at 30 ft/lb .
i highly appreciate anyone's feedback
Old 08-22-2011, 07:09 PM
MadHattr059's Avatar
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Posts: 2,299

If you mount a dial-mic on the fork leg you can check the runouton the disk.
If you don't have one, they are pretty handy. If you happen to have a piece
of marble or heavy glass around, lay the disk on that.Then run a flat-guage around
the edge, getting progressively bigger till they won't side under anywhere around
the edges. The last one that fit (x2) is your total run-out.

if you do a search, you'll be able to find a download-able manual version.
Honda hasn't officially figured out the potential of online publishing yet.
Thus, doing so IS a gray area. I'd highly recommend the Clymer manual.
The Haines is decent, too. Me? I own all 3, factory and both of the above.
On important specs, I cross-reference to verify vs printing issues.

Unfortunately, I have a 98F3, so I can't give you anything more than encouragement.
It sounds like you have a good grasp of the basics of wrenching so, hopefully,
one of our F4i guys will give you the straight skinny on the torque-specs.

Good luck, Ern
Old 08-22-2011, 09:48 PM
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good tip about using the glass, and thanks i will do some online searching for the online manual and hopefully get a factory manual as well from Ebay or amazon
thanks agian this was very helpful
Old 08-26-2011, 02:53 AM
Zero1080's Avatar
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Posts: 1,185

You made me open my pdf. UGH!

For the two bolts that hold the caliper to the mount, they are both to be torqued to 13 ft/lb. Or so my manual says. I honestly just make them tight.
Old 08-28-2011, 12:13 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2011
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Run your finger on both sides of the rotor to check if there's any grooves in the rotor itself, and you can check the maximum thickness variation by taking a micrometer and measuring 10-12 spots on the rotor to make sure your getting the most specs, if the thickness variation is to great your braking performance is screwed with the high spots and low spots which may cause pulsation, runout you need a dial indicator to get an accurate reading, runout will cause pulsation and depending on the thickness of the rotor you may or may not be able to reuse the rotor,im almost positive you cant machine a bikes rotor because its slotted with drilled holes so if you have a thickness variation of .10 you may want to look into new rotors
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