The last time I rode the bike last summer was probably the longest I been out 2-3hours. During a break I went to start the engine and nothing just clicks. After an hour of checking fuses etc we managed to bump start it no problem then I put it in the garage to deal with another day as I didn’t want to get caught out again if it needed restarting.

My theory is as it’s always on a smart charger, the battery is depleting when riding as the alternator isn’t charging it. Previous rides were 1 hour blasts. After research on this apparently it’s a common problem with the regulator rectifier. I haven't done the test for it yet but I’ve checked the battery and after a full charge and left for one day it’s 12.9V which is good. So my plan is to check the rectifier next and stator after I put some fresh oil and fuel in. In the meant time I have ordered a brand new battery anyway and I hope the regulator and stator replacement will solve the issue.

The bike only has 9K miles on, one owner from new (2002) and I’ve had it 2 years as a new summer rider guy. Although serviced the guy obviously never rode it hence why I’m changing things like battery etc just incase as the tires are like new but are 15 years old not good.

2 questions, what regulator rectifier and Stator do you recommend? (I’m UK BASED) bearing in mind I want plug and play no soldering/crimping etc. Did Honda sort the OEM ones out? As I’ll just get OEM if they did (the stator is too expensive OEM though)

And do I sound correct with the theory because it’s was just clicking not turning over? Starts fine since on the drive but I’ve not rode it and the battery has always been topped up.

thanks.

 

To prove it one way or the other put a volt meter across the battery when the bike is running and the voltage should go from about 13.2v to 14.4v as the revs go from tickover to about 4,000. If so the charging system is good, if the voltage stays at the basic battery volts then either the alternator or the rectifier / regulator (or both) is duff.

 

I did this last year and the revs stayed the same which I thought being a novice idiot was good, think it increased by 0.1 I was expecting it to decrease. Definitely didn’t INCREASE by a whole volt like you say it should so I best do that rectifier and Stator test with the multimeter. Hoping it’s the Rectifier and I’ll just replace both.

Are the OEM ones better now?

 

If your going with the original design then oem is by far the best but there is a newer alternative using mosfet components that is more efficient at dispersing the excess power and does not overheat so easily - look for FH012AA or FH020AA.

I’ve not used the new style myself but I hear good things said of them.

 

Thanks that’s exactly the info I need, I’ll take a look at both. I appreciate the time to reply some great advice.

Out of interest the new style FH rectifier does it drop straight in without modification?

 

I know my F2 needs an adaptor but I doubt know about the F4

 

Thanks