...I'm considering putting heavier springs and some valving into my forks (I'm only going to do compression only if that would make the job any easier?), but I am not too familiar with the process... Do you have to drill out anything or is a straight part replacement? Any good tutorials on this or videos? Or should I just spend the extra cash and pay to have it done by racetech or the like?

 

This video is for replacing fork seals, but it should help you understand what will be involved.
F4i Fork Seal Change Part 1 - YouTube

 

Thanks... So if I just replaced fork springs, it is a pretty easy job (I don't eve have to remove the damper rod)... Just take the fork assembly down to where you can get the springs out and install new heavier springs and reinstall everything and add new fork oil? If I just install springs and leave the stock compression damping, is it a worthwhile improvement or should I definitely do the compression valving along with heavier weight springs (I'm 200 lbs without gear)?

 

You need better rebound valves WAY MORE then compression valves.

 

I've said this before & I'll say it again... "Just so the OP knows, that ^^^ "how-to" above is not the end-all be-all how-to to changing fork seals. While that vid can be of help as a single resource, it is far from complete or proper procedure for a fork seal removal/replacement. I applaud the helpful spirit of that video(s) BUT be sure to Do your homework & follow the service manual procedure."

 

Thanks, I was told that compression valving had more bang for your buck than rebound, but I guess I was advised wrong... Is this just on the F4i fork? I see you have racetech components installed, did you do it yourself or did you ship your forks to them and have them installed? How much did it cost?

 

The springs are way too soft stock so the compression valving is extra hard to make up for it and the rebound valves are very soft since they don't have much force to deal with. Put heavier springs in and your rebound valves can't handle the force and the compression valves are a bit too heavy. Stock compression valves can be made to work depending on what spring rate you choose but rebound just won't. I had my stuff installed by a local racetech certified shop.

 

...I'm going to go with .95 kg/mm springs... That makes sense, but what is required to make the stock compression valves work? Did you just dial back the compression on the adjusters, or is there something internally that needs to be done to "make it work?" I don't have a local race tech shop (or any shop for that matter)... What weight fork oil did you end up using or what did race tech recommend?

 

I used .85kg springs as I wanted a fairly soft front end for my streetbike. Yes I just dialed back the compression but I am only like 3/4 turn out from full soft. Racetech recommends using 5w oil but I used the stock 10w honda fluid. I had the tech shim the rebound valves for 10w oil. Looking back I would have gone with the recommended 5w and that should make the compression valving a little softer. Also a tech might be able to re-shim the stock compression valves but I don't know for sure.

 

I have .90kg race traxxion springs, and race tech gold rebound and comp valves, all professionally done by a local shop. They will do mail order (so will traxxion dynamics). I suggest having a shop do it for you, as there is lots of shimming and other things you have to do to dial it all in. The forks are the only thing on my bike I have not done myself. Forks, along with the penske damper, the rc51 calipers (with vesrah srjl pads), and the r6 front master have made my bike into a completely different animal. I highly recommend getting your suspension built.