lowering an f4i
#21
08-01-2006, 10:29 PM
RE: lowering an f4i
Ratchet strap to the garage rafters or a screw hook if you have a finished ceiling. Hook the strap to the subframe.
For all:
Lowering a F4i is like putting rearsets on a 'Busa.[:@]
If you have to do it to ride the bike, you need a different bike. Why, because you are messing with the geometry. That means that you are going to deck out sooner in the corners, and your swingarm angle is all jacked up. What? You don't do twisties. Then get a different bike that fits. I just think it's funny to see someone spend the money and go to the trouble to get a F4i to fit them only to make it a horrible handling bike. Why get the F4i in the first place?
Don't drop the front if you ride hard. You are inviting tank slappers. By riding hard I mean coming out of a corner and accelerating hard enough that the front it barely skimming the pavement. I have had mine with the stock geometry start to shake a little.
If you are looking for performance, don't drop the front. Shim the rear. Place a shim between the upper shock mount and the frame. Don't go more than 5mm, and get a steering damper. This will save your ground clearance which you greatly need if you really ride. You will get better turn in at the cost of some stability. I haven't done it yet because I can't afford a steeing damper yet.
Now if you are a townie, your rear tire is flat as a pancake, and the closest you get to the twisties are highway on ramps, then totally disregard what I typed. You could dump the whole suspension and air bag it and you probably wouldn't notice. If you are the kind of person that burns up knee sliders and needs (not want's) rearsets, then you will want to look into what I wrote.
For all:
Lowering a F4i is like putting rearsets on a 'Busa.[:@]
If you have to do it to ride the bike, you need a different bike. Why, because you are messing with the geometry. That means that you are going to deck out sooner in the corners, and your swingarm angle is all jacked up. What? You don't do twisties. Then get a different bike that fits. I just think it's funny to see someone spend the money and go to the trouble to get a F4i to fit them only to make it a horrible handling bike. Why get the F4i in the first place?
Don't drop the front if you ride hard. You are inviting tank slappers. By riding hard I mean coming out of a corner and accelerating hard enough that the front it barely skimming the pavement. I have had mine with the stock geometry start to shake a little.
If you are looking for performance, don't drop the front. Shim the rear. Place a shim between the upper shock mount and the frame. Don't go more than 5mm, and get a steering damper. This will save your ground clearance which you greatly need if you really ride. You will get better turn in at the cost of some stability. I haven't done it yet because I can't afford a steeing damper yet.
Now if you are a townie, your rear tire is flat as a pancake, and the closest you get to the twisties are highway on ramps, then totally disregard what I typed. You could dump the whole suspension and air bag it and you probably wouldn't notice. If you are the kind of person that burns up knee sliders and needs (not want's) rearsets, then you will want to look into what I wrote.
#22
08-01-2006, 11:42 PM
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RE: lowering an f4i
Thanks for the response. He rides in town and, his tire is going quite flat in the center. Burnouts. Like I said, it is his bike, and, i am gonna help him with what he wants to do. Problem with doing the install how you did, he is in an apartment with a garage, but, no way to hook it up to the roof. I do have two 6 ton jack stands we could run a steel bar between and across the frame. Or, does that sound like an accident waiting to happen? Thanks again in advance
Tylor
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