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Leaky brakes

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  #1  
Old 09-27-2012, 05:47 PM
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Default Leaky brakes

Stood on the rear brake like I normally would when I'm opening the garage on my slopey driveway and the rear brakes got stuck. Upon inspection I found this.

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New crush washers needed possibly?
 
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Old 09-27-2012, 05:52 PM
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Replace the washers and make sure it's tight. Generally leaky brake lines will make the brake soft or not work at all. Maybe there is a line or caliper problem too.
 
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Old 09-27-2012, 07:40 PM
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When you replace the crush-rings, you'll need to bleed the system, as well.
Never hurts to replace the fluid completely. Something that should be done
every couple of years, anyway.

Might go ahead and pull the caliper of the mount and re-pack the hanger-pins.
Possibly polish up the pins the pads float on as well, they look a little corroded.

As Demon mentioned, check the pistons movement, also.
Push them in a bit and apply the brake to check they are moving freely.

Basically, this is a good excuse to go through the whole sub-system and
give it that 'minty-fresh' it probably needs.

Heck, when you get done, here...visit the front calipers, while the procedures
are still fresh in your mind.

Ern
 
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Old 09-28-2012, 12:16 AM
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Very thorough Will do.

Thanks gents!
 
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Old 09-28-2012, 06:06 PM
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Upon inspection, I noticed there is some play in the caliper where it attaches to the mount. Can't be normal. Replacing the sleeves and boots should fix the problem I assume?
 
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Old 09-28-2012, 06:13 PM
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Define "some" play.
The caliper does float a bit...may be normal. When it doesn't move, its frozen.
 
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Old 09-28-2012, 06:18 PM
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I'll take a vid..
 
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Old 09-28-2012, 06:34 PM
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Not great, but it gets the point across. I attempted to get a dial indicator on there, but between the exhaust being in the way and everything being aluminum, I had nothing to stick it to.

F4i Caliper movement - YouTube
 
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Old 09-28-2012, 06:42 PM
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Looks about normal to me.

That's not making the brakes stick. Maybe the rear master is being hung up by the pedal or the brake line is collapsed internally. If you can get it to stick again, crack the bleeder and see if there is pressure and if it releases. If there is, then it's a hydraulic issue. If not, it's mechanical.
 
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Old 09-28-2012, 06:44 PM
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I actually realized what caused the added stress on the banjo bolt causing it to leak. I've replaced the washers and am going through the caliper as we speak.

It was a VERY stupid and embarrassing mistake. If you have a keen eye, you'll notice what the problem was in the first picture.
 
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