My bad, I totally spaced out, I thought that the dude above you posted those pics. The whole time I was thinkin that you did the do-it-youself integrated thing with the relays and ****. Thats why I was mentioning how it was wired to the front signals, as that is necessary with that method.

I'm sure the led relay will fix your problem. I have a few buddies that want to do this and i'm gonna try this converter that you used.

Actualy, the third wire doens't tell you when the lights out, it just illuminates the running light filiment in the stock bulbs. The reason I used it is it has 12 v when the blinker is off, and 0 v when the blinker is on. It tells the relay that I used when to allow the brake signal to light up the bulb, and when to allow the turn signal to light up the bulb (you don't want the brake and turn signal allowed to reach the bulb at the same time, causes lots of problems).

I like your undertail too, I think i'm gonna make one tonight, I have some sheet metal layin around the garage. Might try and make a hole for a plate light as well. Good idea though.

 

Ya, I understand what your saying. What I was refering to was I don't think that a 2 wire system (in cars and bikes of today) make it possible to have the "bulb out" fast blink, that they had to isolate all 3 circuts.

Thanks for the compliment on the undertail. I kinda cheated on mine to make the cuts so perfect...... I'm a design engineer that also has access to a laser machine . I drew it up and cut it out on the laser last wed. I came home and did a test fit with one piece. I marked up a few small changes and cut another one out Thursday. The 2nd one fit perfect. I also drew the hole with the exact notch for the lock . I had to license plate brkts designed, one as you see and one with tabs for turn signals if I decided to use them. Kinda a neat setup. If you remove the brkt on there now, you will see 2 holes for the stalk wiring to pass thru. The brkt with tabs has a cutout in that area so the holes will be seen. Not using them, the brkt I have covers the holes up . The holes are specifically sized to rubber grommets for the wires to pass thru. I don't havae a license plate light as of now, but If I do I'm just gonna use the LED bolts to hold the plate AND be the lights. The FE is made of just 1008/1010 steel. I primed it (4 coats) and then put another 4 coats of Rustoleum Flat black. I thought about getting it powdercoated, but I never ride in the rain, nor does the bike get washed with water, so I think I'm ok.

I have been thinking about cutting one outta 304 stainless

 

ALL IS WORKING!!!

I got the LED relay today and installed. Slow blink all the time. Thought I could remove the equalizer, but that caused the NO BLINK condition I had before the equalizer. Reading about the LED relay, it says you still may need the equalizer IF you have LED's in front and rear. The way the bike is, it's like having LEDs on both. The stock brake bulbs I am now using for brake/turn are 21/3 watts. I'm not sure which watt runs "tail" and with one runs "brake" (now brake/turn). Regardless, the stock "turn" bulb is 23 watts. If the 3 watt portion of the bulb is Brake/Turn, then I'm pulling considerably lower watts, so much that the LED relay won't make a difference....... so I think anyway.

I re-installed the equalizer and all is back to Slow blink, just like stock. I think this Project is "Cased Closed".

BTW, the relay was easy to install. I took the rubber mounting grommet and ran two zip ties thru the part that would normally go on the stock relay. With the grommet on, I just slid it back on the mounting tab.