High idle problems at operating temp
#1
High idle problems at operating temp
Hey guys first post here.
I'm having an issue that some others have encountered and am at a loss on what to try next. None of the other threads were solved, or if they were, solutions were not posted.
I have an 02 F4i and it sat unused for many 5+ years, has about 10k miles on it.
So far I've replaced FPR, vacuum lines, oil/filter, coolant, fuel pump & stay, and fast idle wax unit's element.
Prior to replacing the wax element it idled around 2k until it started warming up and then the rpms would raise to about 3500-4000rpms when warm. I replaced the wax unit according to the manual. Now bike idles 2200-2800 when warm.
When bike is in normal operating temp I can push on the starter valve's shaft and the rpms drop to normal rpms and while holding the shaft I can adjust the idle speed with the idle screw.
Do I need to adjust the white painted bolt on the wax unit's piston to work properly with the new wax element or do I have some other problem going on here? It seems almost like the wax element isnt pushing the starter valve shaft far enough but I'm hesitant about adjusting the white painted bolt on the piston end.
I am new to working on my own bike so any suggestions would be helpful.
I'm having an issue that some others have encountered and am at a loss on what to try next. None of the other threads were solved, or if they were, solutions were not posted.
I have an 02 F4i and it sat unused for many 5+ years, has about 10k miles on it.
So far I've replaced FPR, vacuum lines, oil/filter, coolant, fuel pump & stay, and fast idle wax unit's element.
Prior to replacing the wax element it idled around 2k until it started warming up and then the rpms would raise to about 3500-4000rpms when warm. I replaced the wax unit according to the manual. Now bike idles 2200-2800 when warm.
When bike is in normal operating temp I can push on the starter valve's shaft and the rpms drop to normal rpms and while holding the shaft I can adjust the idle speed with the idle screw.
Do I need to adjust the white painted bolt on the wax unit's piston to work properly with the new wax element or do I have some other problem going on here? It seems almost like the wax element isnt pushing the starter valve shaft far enough but I'm hesitant about adjusting the white painted bolt on the piston end.
I am new to working on my own bike so any suggestions would be helpful.
#2
#3
Coolant is full to the top of the radiator. Though it is mostly distilled water since I was going to run water through a few times to flush it out before adding new coolant.
When I disassembled the housing to put the new wax element in, there was definitely coolant inside where it should be (was wet). The wax unit is definitely functioning compared to the old unit, just not allowing/pushing (not sure which applies) the starter valves closed far enough.
When I disassembled the housing to put the new wax element in, there was definitely coolant inside where it should be (was wet). The wax unit is definitely functioning compared to the old unit, just not allowing/pushing (not sure which applies) the starter valves closed far enough.
#5
Coolant is full to the top of the radiator. Though it is mostly distilled water since I was going to run water through a few times to flush it out before adding new coolant.
When I disassembled the housing to put the new wax element in, there was definitely coolant inside where it should be (was wet). The wax unit is definitely functioning compared to the old unit, just not allowing/pushing (not sure which applies) the starter valves closed far enough.
When I disassembled the housing to put the new wax element in, there was definitely coolant inside where it should be (was wet). The wax unit is definitely functioning compared to the old unit, just not allowing/pushing (not sure which applies) the starter valves closed far enough.
#6
The hoses to/from the wax unit are clear - I could blow through both of them and there wasn't any apparent buildup that I could see anywhere inside them.
I did not remove/adjust anything with the starter valves I only removed the clip holding the end of the wax unit to the shaft by the single screw.
Could this be something as simple as dirty/gummed up starter valves which the wax unit cant push all the way or do those things push pretty hard when warmed up? It should push all the way until that shaft hits the idle screw, no? The distance I need to move the starter valves manually to reduce the rpms is very small - this is why I asked if I may need to adjust that white painted bolt slightly for a new wax element.
I wont have time for a couple days but I'll take it all back apart and check the starter valves when moving the shaft manually and check they all close at the same time, double check the wax unit has coolant flow, and double check that the wax element's piston isnt stuck somehow. I'm not sure what else to consider.
I did not remove/adjust anything with the starter valves I only removed the clip holding the end of the wax unit to the shaft by the single screw.
Could this be something as simple as dirty/gummed up starter valves which the wax unit cant push all the way or do those things push pretty hard when warmed up? It should push all the way until that shaft hits the idle screw, no? The distance I need to move the starter valves manually to reduce the rpms is very small - this is why I asked if I may need to adjust that white painted bolt slightly for a new wax element.
I wont have time for a couple days but I'll take it all back apart and check the starter valves when moving the shaft manually and check they all close at the same time, double check the wax unit has coolant flow, and double check that the wax element's piston isnt stuck somehow. I'm not sure what else to consider.
#7
Solved!!
Hey guys I ended up with most of a free day today due to some canceled plans and decided to rip it down again.
Everything was as previously described but I decided to pull off the piece that bolts to the block under the thermostat housing that the hot feed line to the wax unit comes from. Sure enough, inside that bit it was plugged up. I cleaned the piece out and bolted everything back together and now she runs like new.
Thanks guys.
Everything was as previously described but I decided to pull off the piece that bolts to the block under the thermostat housing that the hot feed line to the wax unit comes from. Sure enough, inside that bit it was plugged up. I cleaned the piece out and bolted everything back together and now she runs like new.
Thanks guys.
#8
Hey guys I ended up with most of a free day today due to some canceled plans and decided to rip it down again.
Everything was as previously described but I decided to pull off the piece that bolts to the block under the thermostat housing that the hot feed line to the wax unit comes from. Sure enough, inside that bit it was plugged up. I cleaned the piece out and bolted everything back together and now she runs like new.
Thanks guys.
Everything was as previously described but I decided to pull off the piece that bolts to the block under the thermostat housing that the hot feed line to the wax unit comes from. Sure enough, inside that bit it was plugged up. I cleaned the piece out and bolted everything back together and now she runs like new.
Thanks guys.
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thebigblue92
CBR 1000F "Hurricane"
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07-07-2008 12:43 PM