i was woundering is there a way to get different ligh for head lights except stock with out doing any conversions i've see ppl with different light but im not sure if it is conversion or they just changed their bulps. but i dont wana do the conversion kit maibe just to change bulps if it will give the light a little xeon look or halo look thank all

 

the bulbs are just H7s so you can replace them with any H7 bulbs, I like the sylvania silverstars I got from auto zone
they are brighter and have a white/slight blue tint but not enough blue to look like those fake crap bulbs you see all the time

 

+1 for Silverstars. I had them in my last car and they are great. When I burn out a bulb on the F4i that's what will go in.

Do NOT use higher wattage bulbs. They will only be brighter until you burn up your wiring.

Anything other than replacing your H7's with better H7's will require mods to the housing to prevent blinding other drivers.

 

so if i was gona go and i am to auto zone what would be exact name of those bulbs that im looking for ???

 

just sylvania silverstars H7...

when you swap the bulbs, make sure you don't touch the bulbs themselves or else they will likely explode on you. oil from your finger gets stuck on it, when it heats up, makes a real mess...so if you do touch, clean with alcohol and qtip...

also when you take out the bulbs, you see that there is a plastic base...do not discard...that stays put, you only toss the bulb!

 

I am going to have to respectfully disagree. I don't care for any bulb which has a tint on it. Inherently in a tint you will lose some output. The color may be more pleasing, but with halogens, you are better off with just the plain old OEM bulbs replacing them every 6 months (if you ride daily). The life span on Halogen bulbs is not that long, and people don't realize that.

See Rallylights.com's page on comparisons:

http://www.rallylights.com/hella/H7.asp

You can use an H9 bulb which is 65 watts, and 2100 lumens instead of the standard 1400 lumens that a 55 watt H7 bulb puts out. But when you have a higher wattage, you cut your life span in half. Higher wattage = shorter life. You can only get roughly 20-30 lumens per watt at BEST with a halogen bulb. Where as HIDs put out nearly 100 lumens per watt...

If you buy an OEM HID bulb and OEM HID Ballast for about ~100$ you can get a H7 to D2S washer adapter which costs ~10$ and plug it in straight to our H7 reflectors. I know Blackdog is quite adamant against this, but I plan on testing the beam pattern for glare and spread when I have a spare ballast handy (I always have a few spare HID bulbs on hand). These are the washer adapters:



My wife is doing a retrofit with a RS6/Mercedes Bi-Xenon HID Projector, and will "borrow" her ballast temporarily to do a few test shots of beam patterns against the wall at various distances, and of course the most important is beam spread patterns. For example something like this:

 

well, white light still has bad contrast with asphalt, yes, much brighter overall but not too good on asphalt...maybe that's why it's so fricking bright...as far as halogens....daily riding, at 40K, i've only changed bulbs like once...

 

There are arguements that selective yellow light is better for contrast than white light, but that's not getting at the truth of the matter. the blue section of your eye is not good for focusing. When you get a monochromatic color, your eyes go into night vision mode where there is only contrast and no color. It's safe to say we have color vision for a reason, and I am a proponent of "white" light without too much blue. I find monochromatic yellow/orange/red quite annoying, especially when there are ambient lights which throw my vision back and forth between those modes. If I was alone on a dark road for a very long time, I could see where monochromatic light might be useful, but for the majority of driving, I don't care for it.

People confuse the blue bulb phenomenon with the OEM accepted 4100*K HID bulbs. OEM 4100k bulbs are much better than halogen, the small amount of blue in them is insignificant compared to the 3x brightness. Halogen bulbs are 3200*K, roughly 1200 lumens, when you put a blue tint, you are removing colors, which is bad, because you've now lowered the number of colors that you can differentiate between. However HIDs are not tinted, they have a mixture of salts like florescent tube's phosphor coating, which emit a specturm of color. One of the huge problems and misconceptions with HID bulbs, is that they do NOT put out an even color distribution like halogen or the sun. So the better OEM bulbs have a good distribution so you have good color differentiation, but the cheaper knockoffs have very poor "color rendering index" literally CRI which tells you how good of a color reference a particular bulb is. High CRI is good reference, with the sun and halogen bulbs being 100% Good HIDs are 90% and not differentiable from halogen sources. But bad HIDs are in the 50%, and that is why ALL HIDs get a bad rap, which is too bad.

HIDs are like plastic, just because you can make something easily and cheaply, doesn't necessarily mean you can't make something of high quality also. The point being that alot of people's experience with HIDs are because of people buying crappy bulbs, which gives all HIDs a bad reputation.

daniel stern lighting has some good articles on the blue bulb phenomenon, and selective yellow light.

Halogen bulbs are rated at roughly 1000 hours. That means they will be at 50% brightness at 1000 hours, NOT that they are burned out! So you really ought to change your headlight bulbs every year if you're a regular driver, it's not that they don't work, but you should have replaced them a LOOOONG time ago when they actually do burn out.

 

Oselaris, can I pay you to write my thesis?