I raised my front end back to stock height yesterday and when I did, it wouldnt start afterwards. I found some frayed wires coming from the igniton and from the wiring harness. Its prob been like this for a while since it was lowered and I do lots of wheelies. But it allways started. I seperated the wires and taped them off but still the fuel pump does not prime. Now when I was working on it I had my headlight upside down, so the bank angle sensor was tilted. When i first tryed starting it the FI light didnt come on at all, when I tilted the bank angle sesor upright the FI light came on but no prime. Now I checked the wires coming from the bank angle sensor, and the pink wire from the ignition and they all have power. I tryed checking the fuel and engine cut-off relays for there ohms, not sure what they are supposed to be at, so could be the relays. But I was also wondering if the ignition could get power but still not be working correctly. And when I turn the bank angle sensor more than 60 degrees turn the ignition, I dont hear the engine cut-off relay click, and same when i tilt it back, would this be the bank angle sensor or the engine cut-off relay?? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

P.S. When I try to start the bike everything on the guage cluster comes on fine, the FI light comes on but doesnt turn off, and the fuel pump doesnt prime.

 

Did you happen to check a fuse during all that nonsense?

 

Check fuses, then bypass the BAS by jumping the two outter wires together.

 

When I was installing my remote start security system, I did the same thing you did. I had the upper cowl inverted and completely forgot about the bank angle sensor. Since the bank angle sensor when tilted it cuts off the fuel from the fuel cut-off relay I had to reset the fuel cut-off relay.
To do the reset, I referred to page 165 (15-52) of the 01-03 F4i Service Manual.
It says to Jump the Brown and Black/White wire terminals of the wire harness side using a jumper wire.
1. So, locate the Fuel Cut off Relay. It should be on the right side of the rear frame above the rear passenger foot peg.
2. The relay you need is the one furthest back.
3. Disconnect the plug from the bottom of the relay.
4. Insert a jumper wire from the Brown Wire to the Black/White Wire.
5. With the jumper in place, turn the key to the "ON" position for 10 seconds.
6. After 10 Seconds, turn the key "OFF"
7. Remove the jumper wire and re-connect the plug into the relay.
8. Make sure the bank angle sensor is vertical and upright.
9. Turn the key to the "ON" position and flip the Run/Stop Switch to the Run position. You should now hear the fuel pump prime and the bike will now start.

This did work for me. Please PM me if you need any further assistance. If it did not work, let me know and we can check the "Pink" Wire.

 

I checked all fuses even replaced just to be sure. And I did bypass the BAS still nothing. I just tryed reseting the fuel cut-off relay which didnt work, but when I use a jumper in that plug the fuel pump does turn on. i guess this would mean the relay is bad, so i ordered two new ones. I'll let you guys know. Any other ideas are still welcome, I'm ready to try anything.

 

I don't think it would be the relay, but that is what troubleshooting is all about.

The fuel pump will stay ON and running with the jumper in place and the key ON. It will not shut OFF until you turn the key OFF or remove the jumper.

I think it has to do with the Pink Wire.
When this happened to me, my first thought was the ECU, but after doing some checking I found that it is not the ECU, but rather the infamous "Pink" wire.
The Pink Wire that is located in the harness coming from the ignition cylinder (or ECU, Pin 19 plug B) was not providing the 9v output to the ECU. So, I then removed the ignition cylinder and took it apart to find that the Zener Diode was toast.
So, I did solder a new one in. The Zener Diode that went out was a 3.9v 1w and a two-pack cost me $ 4.47.
Once that was replaced I was able to turn the key ON and flip the Run/Stop Switch to Run and I could hear the fuel pump prime as it should and the bike started right up.

 

I ended up ordering a new electrical part of the ignition. Cost me Fifty dollars after shipping. That replaced the diode and the wires down to the plug. And that did the trick, started right up. Thanks for the help.

 

hey Ardjunkie,
I got the exact same problem, although maybe not wheelie induced. I don't wanna run around with the jumper for ever - can you tell me where you got the "electrical part of the ignition" from,
Thanks in advance,

 

Do you think a guy could just add the replacement diode inline or would you have to replace it in the ignition. The ignition is such a pain in the *** to get to, inline would be so much easier. Thanks

 

OK so I tried to put a new diode inline (in the Pink wire) and still nothing. I tested the output and I am getting 9.37 volts or so but still not priming. I just ordered the lower ignition, the electrical part from bikebandit.com for about $41.00 so I guess I will just try that. Thanks for everyones input ha ha.