vangill, Thanks for the input.
i have done enough mods to know that the only good answer to this question can come from experience with this mod on the track.
ridding on the street is completely dif. u cannot push the bike as hard, or at least you never should.
i have to assume that the dif that u feel comes from a dif rake and trail angle ? the longer forks should not be an issue since u could simply lower the trees on the forks to get the same height. lots of guys actually raise the rear end to decrease the rake.
i am new to track days and the cbr.
i have a fully modded 76 kz1200cc bike with a zx9 front end and zrx12 rear end. it handles better than stock ,but stock was terrible.
i think that the mod would be worth the experiment if u could get the parts cheap enough. u would have to be a hands on kind of guy for sure. it would be benifisial to resurch dif bikes rake/trail and try to find a close match. it seems that there would be a few nice side benafits to this route over revalving. as mentioned by others, better brakes, and less weight.
new internals would be the tried and tested method, but cartridges cost about $1200 to start.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...MakeTrack=true
not sure how much Gold valves cost, but much less.


brveagle,

i'm sure u are right that u shouldn't screw with Honda's engineering,it would be easier to leave things alone, but if we never try dif things we will never know if theirs another way. I love to try dif things, but i dont want to waist money if others have already proven this to be a poor idea. Thanks for the input.

Can u tell me how much a change or improvement the new internals made ? did u go with the cartridges or valves?


Nothing wrong with dif opinions guys, but there's no point arguing over them, when discussion will do.
Thanks for everyone's input, and i,d love to hear from anyone else that has experience or even dif opinions.[IMG]file:///C:/DOCUME%7E1/User/LOCALS%7E1/Temp/msohtml1/01/clip_image001.gif[/IMG]

 

I see, WOW. Thanks for educating me/us, I appreciate it

 

Seems that if you use 600RR components, the rake change is minimal, if any. The trail does change, minimal but does change.

F4I:
Rake, Trail = 24.0°, 96 mm (3.8 in)
Wheelbase = 55 in (1,390 mm)
Seat Height = 31.7 in (805 mm)

600RR 03-05:
Rake, Trail = 24.0°, 95.0 mm (3.7 in)
Wheelbase = 54.7 in (1,389 mm)
Seat Height = 32.3 in (820 mm)

600RR +2007:
Rake, Trail = 23.9°, 97.7 mm (3.8 in)
Wheelbase = 53.9 in (1,369 mm)
Seat Height = 32.3 in (820 mm)

 

with the rr arm the wheelbase will get about an inch or so longer on the f4i, and mark1200, the f4i has like the longest forks, almost all other r shorter, which poses a problem.

im not trying to argue or tell anyone they are wrong-just an fyi, ive just done months of reading on this before i did it to my f4i and my buddies so im just trying to help with any questions-not be mean

 

And I apreaciate it

 

Psh whatever your clearly a incompetent individual who think he knows much and actually knows nothing about motorcycles.....

your fired




















p.s. your audi lights are gonna be BA Im hoping to have them done sat.

 

Jeez how did I miss this thread?!?!?!? LOL For the record I track my bike and have tracked my bike since my swap.... I DO NOT stunt...

Well here are my thoughts on the topic. First of all, as far as a shock goes, the best bet for track purposes is to send your stock shock to Traxxion Dynamics in Atlanta, GA. They do great work. For about $300 they will clean, polish, revalve, resping, and dyno test the shock to make sure its for your weight...

I have their shock on my bike now and its 100x better now. (If you have money to blow go buy the Ohlins shock but to me thats a waste...)

When I reinstalled the shock I added about 4 washers on the upper shock mount to add about 8mm of ride height. The minimal height is only noticable with slightly better tip in but mainly helps with ground clearance issues.

NOw on to my opinion on the fork swaps.. I bought some R1 forks off Z on here and swapped them to my bike. However I did some modifications... I put an Ohlins cartridge system into the R1 forks with fresh oil and seals sprung for my weight (pricey but worth it)... Now the 2001 R1 forks can be bolted up with the R1 triples and can actually be set so that the trail and rake dont change... If doing mathematical formulas it may change slightly but not noticable. I was able to keep the front ride height the same as well with the R1 forks.

Now as others have said, it does feel different than OEM forks. Seriously though, what do you expect?? YOur basically frakensteining a bike, ITS GOING TO FEEL DIFFERENT! With that said, its all preference too. What one racer may like his biike to feel another may not. I had revalved and resprung OEM forks and I still wasn't satisfied... plus I had money to blow and did the R1 swap.

Heres everything thats currently upgraded on the f4i...

R1 forks with Ohlins internals,
Goodridge SS brake lines,
R6 brembo radial master cylinder,
currently 2001 R1 brake calipers which work good enough for me,
Stock R1 rotors with Vesrah RJL pads,
modded my Ohlins damper mount to fit with the fork swap,
R1 wheel and front fender....
Im using CBR 1000RR clip ons aftermarket with a 1" rise (sits like stock clipons, lowering them will make you run into too many clearance issues)
Vortex rearsets, BMC race air filter, yoshi RS3 shorty slip on,
PCIII USB with custom map,
Did the clean air mod, removed the upper triangle duct things on the ram air intakes and then all maintenance work such as valves and all that good stuff.


The brakes with this setup made me accidently do a stoppie going into turn 7 at VIR north as I wasnt expecting the bit to be as good as it was. I was too used to stock OEM f4i brakes which in my opinion are crap. Thankfully i recovered and didn't go down.

Now as far as feel goes... heres my opinion all based on my preference and track time. With my setup, I feel that the bike tips in roughly about the same and when it does, it feels more stable to me. The traxxion dynamics shock feels much better and doesnt sag nearly like it used to coming out of a turn hard on the throttle. The ride height on the bike sits the same with the exception of the 8mm rise on the rear. Trust me, this doesnt sound like much but it prevents be from dragging body work and exhaust bike. Overall I think for my personal preference I prefer my setup much better over the OEM. AGAIN thats MY preference and by no means am I saying YOU will like it better.

To be honest, would I do the swap again? Probably not, it was pricey and I might as well just bought a newer bike lol but now I have something different and I know its setup just for my liking... Now if anyone wants pictures Ill be more than happy to post pics...

 

Vangill, just to clarify. i was not saying anything negative towards you.
Thanks again for your input.

this is the response i just got back from Dan at Traxxiondynamics.

We build each AK20 cartridge kit custom, to order.
We can build a kit for either bike(rr/f4). The F4 kit
could be retrofitted into the RR forks, it would
take around $200 in parts. The 05 forks are
considerably shorter than the F4 forks, around
40mm. If you are thinking about swapping the 05
forks to your F4, that is a bad idea. It would be
a waste of money besides. The AK20s in your stock
forks would be the best bet.


skameigh
this is valuable info for us guys thinking of this upgrade. thanks a million.
what year did the r1 start to use radial brakes? what year did u use ?

this is what im taking from your post, and others above so far.
-the rr fork may be a poor choice due to its short length. 40mm shorter would decrees the rake almost 2*, and give u ground clearance issues.

_ the f4 gold valve would be the best choice based on cost alone.
-Springs are $129.99 and the valves are $204.99 for the G2-Rs.
- ak20 cartriges are about $1000.

-the R1 would be the best choice all around due to the added braking ability, but comes with a high cost.
when u consider this cost u really must start thinking about buying a complete rr instead.then u will get a lot more upgrades for the same or similar cost.
please correct me if i have this wrong.

This is what is so good about forums. u can get great advice from guys that have actually been there done that.
Thanks guys.

 

Rc51 forks r longs enough. Gsxrs have good ones too but it must be a newer 1000 for the length and the r1 got radial in 04 I think. I'm pretty sure 1000rr forks r the right length

 

And yes cost effective would be to get an rr.