Flushmount installation
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Flushmount installation
are installing flushmounts difficult?
All you have to do is remove the upper cowel and replace flush mounts?
Also, in the hand book it says to but back bolts at a certain torque wit torque wrench..is that necessary?
All you have to do is remove the upper cowel and replace flush mounts?
Also, in the hand book it says to but back bolts at a certain torque wit torque wrench..is that necessary?
Joined: Jul 2005
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RE: Flushmount installation
It's not THAT difficult, but be prepared to remove the front cowling completely. The taking off part is easy, it's the putting back on part that sucks @ss.
Also, I highly recommend installing a replacement relay while you have the cowling off. The factory relay is designed to flash at a faster rate if it detects a drop in resistance. They were designed this way on purpose to let you know that you have a flasher bulb burnt out. This is why the LED signals blink fast. There are a number of aftermarket relays that you can install that are "dumb" to the drop in resistance and blink at a constant rate no matter what. This prevents having to install your own resistors, etc.
I've got the Protons flushmounts and love them. I bought the flasher relay from CustomLED.com for about $20.
Also, I highly recommend installing a replacement relay while you have the cowling off. The factory relay is designed to flash at a faster rate if it detects a drop in resistance. They were designed this way on purpose to let you know that you have a flasher bulb burnt out. This is why the LED signals blink fast. There are a number of aftermarket relays that you can install that are "dumb" to the drop in resistance and blink at a constant rate no matter what. This prevents having to install your own resistors, etc.
I've got the Protons flushmounts and love them. I bought the flasher relay from CustomLED.com for about $20.
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RE: Flushmount installation
I thought it was pretty easy, only thing I had a problem with was getting the wiring right. I hooked it up wrong the first time but I got it after the second try. I think they look sweet.
Daniel Thompson
Daniel Thompson
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RE: Flushmount installation
It's not hard if you get all the screws. Make sure to get the plastic body clips attached to the inner fairing behing the front wheel. There are also a couple of large, silver allen head screws around the handle bars that need to come out. Lastly, you kind of have to pull the fairing up and off the holes where the mirrors screw on.
Good luck.
Good luck.
Joined: Apr 2005
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RE: Flushmount installation
stupid question but do i have to unscrew the mirrors? By bike is stored right now so i cant look at it. thanks i tried before and couldnt get it and was going to pay the shop to install my flushmounts. but i wanna save 150 bucks.
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RE: Flushmount installation
Yes, you have to unscrew the Mirrors.
Took out the bolts on the side fairings that mount to the front fairing.
Took off Mirrors.
Took off the plastic piece that is behind the front tire, the piece Covering the front of the engine.
You also have to unplug some wiring.
Thats all I really remember but everything should COME OFF pretty easily, you shouldnt have to pull on it.
If it feels like something is still holding, then there probably is something still holding it on.
Daniel Thompson
Took out the bolts on the side fairings that mount to the front fairing.
Took off Mirrors.
Took off the plastic piece that is behind the front tire, the piece Covering the front of the engine.
You also have to unplug some wiring.
Thats all I really remember but everything should COME OFF pretty easily, you shouldnt have to pull on it.
If it feels like something is still holding, then there probably is something still holding it on.
Daniel Thompson
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Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 265
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RE: Flushmount installation
ORIGINAL: kiggy74
It's not THAT difficult, but be prepared to remove the front cowling completely. The taking off part is easy, it's the putting back on part that sucks @ss.
Also, I highly recommend installing a replacement relay while you have the cowling off. The factory relay is designed to flash at a faster rate if it detects a drop in resistance. They were designed this way on purpose to let you know that you have a flasher bulb burnt out. This is why the LED signals blink fast. There are a number of aftermarket relays that you can install that are "dumb" to the drop in resistance and blink at a constant rate no matter what. This prevents having to install your own resistors, etc.
I've got the Protons flushmounts and love them. I bought the flasher relay from CustomLED.com for about $20.
It's not THAT difficult, but be prepared to remove the front cowling completely. The taking off part is easy, it's the putting back on part that sucks @ss.
Also, I highly recommend installing a replacement relay while you have the cowling off. The factory relay is designed to flash at a faster rate if it detects a drop in resistance. They were designed this way on purpose to let you know that you have a flasher bulb burnt out. This is why the LED signals blink fast. There are a number of aftermarket relays that you can install that are "dumb" to the drop in resistance and blink at a constant rate no matter what. This prevents having to install your own resistors, etc.
I've got the Protons flushmounts and love them. I bought the flasher relay from CustomLED.com for about $20.
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Hayden06F4i
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May 16, 2008 12:01 PM
2004, 600rr, cbr, customledcom, electronic, f4i, flasher, flush, flushmounts, install, mount, proton, rear, relay
