Most would think this is the regular blinking light issue but this is something completely different. My cluster FI light comes on once I hit the on/off switch to in and the fuel pump stops priming. It never flashes with a consistant number as what I have found out. Well what I did is reset the ecu by jumping the wires uner the seat (brown and other wire). When I did this teh FI light cut off until I turned the bike completely off. Once I turned it back on I had the same issue.. No here is the twisted issue. I kept my jumper on the bypass wires and instead of the FI light flashing.. It stays off.... Weird... Any ideas on this.. Bike Runs A1.. No issues with anything at all.. Also only no stock things on bike are the 300W stereo system, M4 Slip On, GPS System, Cig Lighter.

 

What was the last thing you did to the bike before it started happening?

 

Mate .... I have a brother in arm!!!! I have a stock bike (no slip ons etc).

Sadly / interestingly I have EXACTLY the same problem - the FI Light just comes on after the kill switch is flicked to On and the pump finishes priming, and the engine is running "A1" ... I've done just about every service on the bike since I bought it 3 months ago, including valve clearance check (not that it would have affected the FI Light), spark plugs etc. Yes, like you, when I left the jumper connected on the ECU diagnosis plug, the FI Light stayed off.

Two latest things I have tried in order to try and locate this gremlin, have been:

(i) disconnecting the IAT plug from the top of the air filter box - the FI Light then correctly flickered 9 times - I also managed to reset the error code by jumping the ECU diagnosis cable - but the FI Light continued to stay lit after the error reset - anyway, this whole process this told me the FI Light wasn't short circuited as far as I know, otherwise the IAT error code wouldn't have eventuated when I deliberately disconnected the IAT plug. So my guess is the constantly lit FI Light is picking up an error somewhere in the engine, I just have no idea what because the service manual table code for "0 non blinking, engine running normally" doesn't say anything other than "ECU failure" or short circuit.

Note: If I remove the jumper from the ECU diagnosis plug while the engine is running, the FI Light STAYS OFF, until such time the engine is stopped and re-started again.

(ii) I then figured it from this forum, that the Bank Angle Sensor could be playing up; the BAS sits in the headlight cowl. Anyway, I disconnected the BAS last night and the engine correctly did not start because the fuel pump wouldn't prime up - I then jumped the two outer BAS connectors (to bypass the BAS) - the engine started, but the FI Light once again stayed lit once the engine was running .... so this whole process told me the BAS seems to be working OK ie. it's not causing the error.

Two further things I will try from this stage on is:

(iii) Go through the entire service manual step-by-step, for the pages relating to the error code non-blinking "0" - there are about 10 pages of troubleshooting, so I'll go through that bit-by-bit and trace any cables or components - I'm hoping there's something loose somewhere.

(iv) One of my mates has the same CBR600F4i - if he's generous, I'll ask for his ECU unit to be plugged into mine, and see if my FI Light comes on the same way - if the FI Light does not come on using his ECU unit, I will then know my ECU unit has a problem, but thankfully not serious enough to cause problems. Not that I would know what to do from that point on ...

It's so annoying having that FI Light staring at me when I'm riding, even if the engine is running beautifully!

Mate, keep the troubleshooting going on your end, while I work on mine ... I'm confident we'll find the gremlin !!!

 

^mine does exactly the same thing, and ive tried everything
the lights still on, and im not buying an ecu. if it works tho please lmk. but thats the only thing mine could be at this point

 

Well my fellow F4i bikers ... after cleaning the rectifier contacts and finding nothing untoward (last throw of the dice), I did not manage to find the root cause of the solid FI Light issue (keep in mind the engine is running beautifully nevertheless), but I decided on a workaround "solution", so the stupid FI Light wouldn't stare at me ...

"Solution": I installed an easily accessible waterproof SWITCH to the ECM diagnostic jumper plug ....

Why? Because in my case when the engine is running, the FI Light stays off as long as the ECM diagnostic plug is shorted / jumped ..... note it still flickers the appropriate diagnostic failure code at startup if something is wrong, so I haven't killed its diagnostic function.

The idea with the switch here is I can leave the jumper plug "on" (ie. failure mode testing, but FI Light off when engine running, if there is nothing wrong with engine), and also use the switch to flick it from "on" to "off" and back to "on" within 5 secs to reset any failure codes.

I installed this small waterproof switch to the right plastic wall casing of the battery, so it can be accessed from the outside (will post pictures if anyone is interested).

I must admit I am not aware of any potential long term damage (shock, horror ..) running the engine with the diagnostic plug permanently shorted, so if anyone thinks this is a bad idea (but from experience, please), say so ...

It's not the best solution, but sure as heck I enjoy not seeing the FI Light mocking me when I'm riding ...