civic oil filter on 02 F4i.
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From:
this is the OP i was referring to. i'm not arguing with you guys, i actually agree with you. ive seen that link many times before, i'm quite familiar with it and i follow the advice on there. i was simply trying to say not to use fram.
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How do you spend $60 on an oil change? I use only Mobil 1 and either OEM or K&N oil filter and it only costs $20. Buying in bulk when stuff is on sale is a beautiful thing. Still, even when stuff ain't on sale I can't see $60 for oil and a filter ... unless you are charging yourself to do the actual change 
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From: Conyers, GA
I get the oil at wally world when they mark it down (and buy a crap load) or at one of the warehouse clubs (BJs, Costco or Sams). K&N filters can be bought on ebay for cheap ... again, the more ya buy the better the price.
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Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 287
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From: Kissimmee Florida
This speaks for itself:
http://www.knizefamily.net/minimopar...reference.html
In the article, you will find this:
Email from an Allied Signal production engineer, in the article posted above wrote:
In my 34 years as an automotive technician, I can tell you I would not use any kind of Fram filter on anything I own, period. They are pure garbage. In my experience, which is mostly cars, all in all, I prefer Wix, which is consistently among the very best in every study I've seen. 
http://www.knizefamily.net/minimopar...reference.html
In the article, you will find this:
Email from an Allied Signal production engineer, in the article posted above wrote:
Russell,
I obtained great satisfaction from reading your oil filter survey.
I worked for two years as the oil-filter production line engineer in
an Allied-Signal FRAM facility and I can confirm every bad thing you
have said about FRAM automotive filters. That's from the horse's
mouth, as it were.
I'm also a quality engineer and can confirm that FRAM applies no
quality control whatsoever to any of the characteristics for which we
buy oil filters. I frequently saw filter designs which were barely
capable of meeting J806. Many of FRAM's designs will block and go to
bypass after trying to filter very little contamination. There were
often leakage paths at the paper end discs when these were not
properly centered on the elements. Some designs had the pleats so
tightly packed against the center tube that they would block off in no
time. I had discovered that the FRAM HP1 that I had been buying for
about $20 Cdn was EXACTLY the same as a PH8 inside - the only
difference being a heavier can - no advantages in flow capacity. The
paper filtration media was of apparently poor quality and the process
of curing the paper resin was very inconsistent - elements would range
from visibly burnt to white. FRAM's marketers admitted that there was
just about no way the public could ever prove that an oil filter
contributed, or did not prevent, engine damage. The only thing FRAM
tested for was can burst strength. Another problem that they have from
time to time is in threading the filter base - often there are strands
of metal left behind on a poorly formed thread.
I have not used a FRAM filter since I started working there. Their
claims are entirely and completely marketing bull****.
If people really want to protect their engines, a good air filter is
vital (which excludes FRAM from that list as well) and a combination
of one depth and one full-flow hydraulic filter, together in parallel,
will do the job of filtration to perfection.
Thanks for doing a great job in trying to get the truth out! You can
quote me anytime.
[name omitted to protect submitter]
I obtained great satisfaction from reading your oil filter survey.
I worked for two years as the oil-filter production line engineer in
an Allied-Signal FRAM facility and I can confirm every bad thing you
have said about FRAM automotive filters. That's from the horse's
mouth, as it were.
I'm also a quality engineer and can confirm that FRAM applies no
quality control whatsoever to any of the characteristics for which we
buy oil filters. I frequently saw filter designs which were barely
capable of meeting J806. Many of FRAM's designs will block and go to
bypass after trying to filter very little contamination. There were
often leakage paths at the paper end discs when these were not
properly centered on the elements. Some designs had the pleats so
tightly packed against the center tube that they would block off in no
time. I had discovered that the FRAM HP1 that I had been buying for
about $20 Cdn was EXACTLY the same as a PH8 inside - the only
difference being a heavier can - no advantages in flow capacity. The
paper filtration media was of apparently poor quality and the process
of curing the paper resin was very inconsistent - elements would range
from visibly burnt to white. FRAM's marketers admitted that there was
just about no way the public could ever prove that an oil filter
contributed, or did not prevent, engine damage. The only thing FRAM
tested for was can burst strength. Another problem that they have from
time to time is in threading the filter base - often there are strands
of metal left behind on a poorly formed thread.
I have not used a FRAM filter since I started working there. Their
claims are entirely and completely marketing bull****.
If people really want to protect their engines, a good air filter is
vital (which excludes FRAM from that list as well) and a combination
of one depth and one full-flow hydraulic filter, together in parallel,
will do the job of filtration to perfection.
Thanks for doing a great job in trying to get the truth out! You can
quote me anytime.
[name omitted to protect submitter]
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Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 259
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From: Tifton, Ga
Chain, are putting auto mobil1 in your bike, or do they mark cycle oil down that low?
If you are running auto what effect are you seeing with your clutch? I run the auto mobil1 in all my cages and thought of trying it in my bike, but I am afraid of the friction modifiers.
If you are running auto what effect are you seeing with your clutch? I run the auto mobil1 in all my cages and thought of trying it in my bike, but I am afraid of the friction modifiers.
Admin Emeritus & MVN
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 6,908
Likes: 3
From: Conyers, GA
Chain, are putting auto mobil1 in your bike, or do they mark cycle oil down that low?
If you are running auto what effect are you seeing with your clutch? I run the auto mobil1 in all my cages and thought of trying it in my bike, but I am afraid of the friction modifiers.
If you are running auto what effect are you seeing with your clutch? I run the auto mobil1 in all my cages and thought of trying it in my bike, but I am afraid of the friction modifiers.
There is too much doubt in my mind about the motorcycle specific oils for me to invest the extra $$. I've read tech articles from the companies explaining the motorcycle specific additives and how much better it is but I've read equally convincing articles saying it was car oil in a different container.
I know a couple of turbo builders that only trust mobil1 and I've had outstanding results so it's what I'll continue to use and recommend.
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 259
Likes: 0
From: Tifton, Ga
I'm with you on the cycle specific oil conspiricy therory.
I used red cap 15-50 in all autos just not my bike because of the added modifiers. Unfortunetly they aren't currently selling at my wally world. Which led me to research the rotella syn.
I used red cap 15-50 in all autos just not my bike because of the added modifiers. Unfortunetly they aren't currently selling at my wally world. Which led me to research the rotella syn.
Official CBRF Welcome Crew Undercover Agent
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 1,907
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From: Colorado, U.S.A.
There is too much doubt in my mind about the motorcycle specific oils for me to invest the extra $$. I've read tech articles from the companies explaining the motorcycle specific additives and how much better it is but I've read equally convincing articles saying it was car oil in a different container.