chain adjustment
#1
chain adjustment
so.. i adjusted my chain like 2 days ago. Done about 300 km's so far and the chain already seems to be loose again.
after the adjustment, i also lubed the chain.
the bike was on a swing arm stand/ the front wasn't on a stand.
made sure the 27mm/21mm bolts are nice and tight.
am also sure, i didn't over tight them (although irrelevant).
checked sprockets and looks ok!
chain life is in the middle (middle part of the white block, in between the new/replace area)
any idea why this would have happened?
thanks.
after the adjustment, i also lubed the chain.
the bike was on a swing arm stand/ the front wasn't on a stand.
made sure the 27mm/21mm bolts are nice and tight.
am also sure, i didn't over tight them (although irrelevant).
checked sprockets and looks ok!
chain life is in the middle (middle part of the white block, in between the new/replace area)
any idea why this would have happened?
thanks.
#2
#3
Make sure you adjust your chain to the tight spots. Meaning, while your rear wheel is off the ground on the stand, slowly rotate the chain until you get a tight spot. The tight spots are where/what you want to loosen.
Once all of your tight spots are loosened enough to be in normal operating specs, rotate the chain to find the largest slack spot. If your largest slack spot has more than 2 inches of slack either up or down, then it is time to replace your chain regardless of where the chain replacement markers are.
Ideally, the largest slack spot of your chain should be between 1 - 1 3/8" of slack. Anymore and you can have troubles.
Page 3-19 in the service manual will help you if you need to reference it.
Cheers and happy safe riding!
Once all of your tight spots are loosened enough to be in normal operating specs, rotate the chain to find the largest slack spot. If your largest slack spot has more than 2 inches of slack either up or down, then it is time to replace your chain regardless of where the chain replacement markers are.
Ideally, the largest slack spot of your chain should be between 1 - 1 3/8" of slack. Anymore and you can have troubles.
Page 3-19 in the service manual will help you if you need to reference it.
Cheers and happy safe riding!
#4
i've had the bike for just about 3 months and done about 10000km's. the chain looks clean and non rusty. i had cleaned/lubed it about 500 km's ago and wanted to adjust prior to the last weekend. hence did so and after about 250-300 km's of riding, i notice the chain is loose.
#5
does chain slack differ from position to position?
Make sure you adjust your chain to the tight spots. Meaning, while your rear wheel is off the ground on the stand, slowly rotate the chain until you get a tight spot. The tight spots are where/what you want to loosen.
Once all of your tight spots are loosened enough to be in normal operating specs, rotate the chain to find the largest slack spot. If your largest slack spot has more than 2 inches of slack either up or down, then it is time to replace your chain regardless of where the chain replacement markers are.
Ideally, the largest slack spot of your chain should be between 1 - 1 3/8" of slack. Anymore and you can have troubles.
Page 3-19 in the service manual will help you if you need to reference it.
Cheers and happy safe riding!
Once all of your tight spots are loosened enough to be in normal operating specs, rotate the chain to find the largest slack spot. If your largest slack spot has more than 2 inches of slack either up or down, then it is time to replace your chain regardless of where the chain replacement markers are.
Ideally, the largest slack spot of your chain should be between 1 - 1 3/8" of slack. Anymore and you can have troubles.
Page 3-19 in the service manual will help you if you need to reference it.
Cheers and happy safe riding!
#8
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