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Brake Change = Cake

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Old Aug 12, 2009 | 02:01 AM
  #1  
Zero1080's Avatar
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Default Brake Change = Cake

So I changed my rear pads today. And good god it couldn't be any easier. I panicked when I pushed the brake down to engage it, and couldn't get the pads to fit, but then just pushed the caliper back. Took the exhaust off, made it so much easier. But seriously, three bolts, some people on take off two. Ten minutes max. Just didn't wanna bump an old thread.
 
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Old Aug 12, 2009 | 01:57 PM
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mike and ikes's Avatar
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I've heard it can be easy but it's nice to get a quick comment from anyone actually doing it. I'll probably tackle mine when they come up.

You might want to tell everyone which brand of brakes you used so we can replicate your easy install.
 

Last edited by mike and ikes; Aug 12, 2009 at 02:02 PM.
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Old Aug 12, 2009 | 02:20 PM
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Or do a how-to. There's nothign wrong with simple 3-step how-to's, especially on stuff people think will be difficult, like brakes.
 
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Old Aug 12, 2009 | 03:00 PM
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Ok. First, if mods could move this to a DIY section if there is one.

I'll start by saying, you should not attempt this is you have zero mechanical knowledge, and what I'm saying is in no way your exact situation. Also, I cannot post pictures, nor know the exact names of parts, so bear with me.

Tools: Standard metric set and socket wrench, adjustable wrench, flat head screwdriver, hex head screwdriver (not sure on the size)

Step 1: Take the exhaust off, it makes things so much easier, and takes an extra two minutes. Bolt by o2 sensor, and footpeg. And unscrew the cap on the rear brake fluid reservoir.

Step 2: There is a small black 'cap' near the rear of the caliper, unscrew that. There should be a gold looking hex head screw. Unscrew that as well. The pads should now float freely.

Step 3: Some people may have to remove the entire caliper, that is done by unscrewing those two big black screws. They are different sizes, don't panic. Otherwise, jump to step four.

Step 4: Make sure the cap on your reservoir is off. Push the 'disc' (what pushes your pad to the rotor) back as far as it will go into the caliper. Your fluid should go back up.

Step 5: Replace the pads, making sure to swap the sliver 'gasket' with it. Should just snap off and snap on. It may be a tight fit if the pads were old, but that is normal. Put the screws back in, in reverse order, and you're done. Test the brakes.

It is a simple process, should take you less than 15 minutes. But remember, DO NOT disconnect the fluid line from the caliper. Once that seal is broken, you have to bleed the brakes, and I have no idea what to do then. Good luck!
 
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Old Aug 12, 2009 | 04:23 PM
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yeah so definitely don't have a manual or anything and I am about due for some new pads..You just made life easy! thanks man!
 
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Old Aug 12, 2009 | 04:48 PM
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Thanks for the writeup! What brand of brakes did you use?
 
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Old Aug 12, 2009 | 10:57 PM
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i was told by the dealer that the rear tire had 2 be removed 2 change out the pads. i simply laughed and walkd away. good quick write up. what pads did you go with? ive been lookin at the EBC HH pads. have read good things bout em. im not due up for a few thousand miles but doesnt hurt to know ahead of time.
 
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Old Aug 12, 2009 | 11:03 PM
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Just replaced the front pads on my bike with the EBC HH pads. took about two days to really seat in but now they grab hard!!! Hell I have to be careful I don't stoppie the bike when braking hard.

EBC HH= VERY GOOD BRAKES!!
 
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Old Aug 13, 2009 | 01:05 AM
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I believe they are EBC HH. Not positive, just asked the dealer for the best the had, but closet to stock. And that's what they gave me. You don't have to take the wheel off. I just flipped the caliper up a bit. And the front are just as easy. Exact same process. I'm hoping mine break in soon, cause holy cow, they won't grab, and the BAM, i'm stopped. But from my pads needing replaced, to brand new, I feel like I should be doing stoppies every time i slow down.
 
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