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SyncPro Caburator Tuner & F2 - Input Welcomed

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  #11  
Old 02-27-2012, 01:15 AM
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MadHattr059,

OK, thanks for response. The only thing I'm still a bit fuzzy on is the vacuum thing. You stated:

"#1 The fuel-petcock is operated by a vacuum, no vac no fuel. It normally gets that vacuum from the port you are going to use for the sync. So, you need to apply a vacuum to the pet-***** line to said carb and then seal it to maintain it, hence assure fuel flow. If you are using an aux. fuel supply and not the bike's tank, you can ignore this."

I'm going to buy a yard or so of fuel line/tube or extension and use the tank itself set on a worktable right next to the bike on which will also be hanging the SychPro. I adapted the above image from the basic F2 OEM parts microfiche above to show the four lines I have to deal with, and here is my understanding of what I have to do--please correct any errors:

-- I can keep the Breather and Drain lines attached.

-- I somehow figure out how to put the yard of fuel line between the fuel line's nipple on the petcock and the bike's own fuel line that usually goes on the petcock.

Where I''m still a bit confused:

-- I remove the Vacuum line from the tank and... seal its tank-side nipple or the tube that goes to the engine?
 
  #12  
Old 02-27-2012, 03:58 AM
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1. It's not important, the carbs should have enough fuel left in the bowls to keep the bike running while you do a carb sync.

2. Most bikes only have 2 adaptors for some reason, One runs to the petcock and the other one is capped. You will need 2 more from your kit.

3. Carb no.3 is your base.
 
  #13  
Old 03-16-2012, 08:53 PM
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Question PLZ reply...

OK, some time later...

Still need to nail these following questions for my mechanic is out of commission for at least two months and I need to sync carbs a.s.a.p. Even though most of this has been addressed, someone reply to the specific questions below, please (consider me dense and dumb - thanks :)

1)
I need to get about a yard of fuel line -- what gauge or diameter to I need to get?
2) How do I attach it between the fuel petcock and the bike's own fuel line -- some female-to-female adapter?
3) Vacuum line -- unhook it and seal its petcock or not?


Below again is the microfiche image I provided on first page.

Oh, and I'm really embarrassed about this last one for I've obviously gotten it right for years. But somehow now confused because of how I park my bike -- on kickstand but due to slight angle of pavement, it's a bit closer to upright than on a level pavement (but still leaning enough not to fall over even with strong wind).

4. Checking oil level - parked with kickstand on level ground, or while bike is in as vertical/upright as possible - and one screws it in all the way, unscrews, then looks at dip stick, right?

The reason I ask is that my readings on both of these vary a lot - straight up looks just right amount of oil, on-kickstand one shows 1/4 of straight-up.

 

Last edited by Soniclight; 03-16-2012 at 09:01 PM.
  #14  
Old 03-22-2012, 12:27 AM
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My manuals suggest using a remote fuel tank. I got on off of ebay. You can't get to the adj screws without removing the tank. I removed the airbox and shroud to get to the carbs. The two hoses on the fittings can be pulled off and the sync put on. I put golf tees into the hoses until they go back on. (never know if something else leaks air) The bolt in the fourth cylinder neck is replaced by the same kind of fitting with a rubber cap as on cyl. #2. The little rubber caps come off by pulling on the very end of the cap. Buy some extras as they get old and brittle.

The hardest part I had to deal with was getting the right size hose to connect from the remote tank to the carb fuel inlet hose. It is bigger than the hose that comes with the remote tank.Different hose use and hose clamps eventually got it all tight and safe. Don't hang the remote tank too high as it will overpower the float valves in the carbs. The remote tank will have a shut off valve. Motion Pro has one, but I got a generic off of ebay. Still works. I believe the base cylinder is #2 for adjustments. The screws adj cyls 1,3, and 4. Manual says don't push hard when adjusting screws and let the idle settle between adjustments. Listen to the motor too, you'll hear when it is right.
 
  #15  
Old 03-22-2012, 12:28 AM
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Oil is measured straight up. Not on sidestand.
 
  #16  
Old 05-09-2012, 06:31 AM
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My most bad on such a late reply... space-out and life happened
But late or not, thanks for response.
 
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