rod bearing replacement
#1
rod bearing replacement
hey guys i have a 94 f2 and i jus threw a rod bearing the other day and i need some help on how to replace it myself...im trying to figure out how much it will cost me and how much work its actually going to be so if you guys could help me out that would be great...
thanks
thanks
#2
The crank is probably trash unless umpteen measurements convince you that it's still in spec, once you get the crank out. Essentially, you wanna get that motor out of there and start tearing her down. Motor needs to come all the way down to the crank. It's pretty much the last part you take out. Depending on how long it has gone on, you will definitely need a new rod (usually come in a set, because they're weighted as a set, you see.) and likely a new oil pump. Little bits of bearing get through the sump screen and put an end to the oil pump regardless of whatever faith anyone has in that super coarse screen that sucks oil up to the pump. It's important to tear the engine all the way down and insure that there's no shavings stuck anywhere. Clean/purge everything really well.
How'd you do it? Really old motor? Overrev? Coolant migration? Low/bad oil?
How'd you do it? Really old motor? Overrev? Coolant migration? Low/bad oil?
#3
Got my bearings for ~7.99 a set on www.ServiceHonda.com. Got a used good crank on eBay and refinished the journals with 2000 grit sandpaper after mic-ing and plastigaging everything out to make sure it would be okay.
You'll also need to take a note that your rods have special internal diameters depending on how Honda made them, and your bearing journals on the crank also have special diameters. For example, on the rod pin that spun the bearing, you may have had a "C" size pin and an "A" size lower rod bearing bore, so you'd have to use the little chart that Honda has to find the corresponding bearing thickness for a "C" size crank pin and an "A" size lower rod bearing bore to insure that oil clearances are correct (I think around 1.5 to 2.5 thousandths, or thereabouts) so low/high oil pressure and excessive wear and noise is avoided.
You'll also need to take a note that your rods have special internal diameters depending on how Honda made them, and your bearing journals on the crank also have special diameters. For example, on the rod pin that spun the bearing, you may have had a "C" size pin and an "A" size lower rod bearing bore, so you'd have to use the little chart that Honda has to find the corresponding bearing thickness for a "C" size crank pin and an "A" size lower rod bearing bore to insure that oil clearances are correct (I think around 1.5 to 2.5 thousandths, or thereabouts) so low/high oil pressure and excessive wear and noise is avoided.
#4
Ok, I'm gona try & explain this. You will prolly have a bad crank, but the only way to know for sure is to remove the engine & pull the lower half of the cases apart & take a look at it. Some measuring will bw required. If there are some scratches that your finger nail gets caught on, the crank is prolly bad. The rod that spun the bearing is also most likely bad. So you will need a crank & at least one rod. Then you will need to cross reference the numbers on the crank, rods, & cases to get the correct bearing clearances.
On the left side (stator side) of the engine behind the flywheel there will be 5 letters A, B, or C in any specific order. (Example AABAC)
There will be a number & a letter on each rod. The number is the ID code & the letter is the weight code. You need the number. You can purchase a single rod if needed. They do not come as a set.
Next look at the crankshaft & find the letters & numbers. The numbers go with the main journals. So the letters on the left side of the cases & the numbers on the crank need to be cross referenced to get the correct bearing. The letters on the crank & the numbers on the rods go together & need to be cross referenced to get the correct bearing.
The letter on the rod (weight code) is not used. It can be used if you have say 2 A's & 2 B's. In that case you would want to put the A's on the outside & the B's in the middle or vise versa. Dont make it so you have an(ABAB). Make it so you have (ABBA) or (BAAB) If the letters dont match say you have 3 different letters then it doesn't really matter where they go.
An oil pump will also be needed as well as a serious cleaning to get rid of all the garbage that has been flowing in the engine.
Crankcase ID code
Crankshaft OD A B C
1 Pink Yellow Green
2 Yellow Green Brown
------------------------------------------------------
Con Rod ID
Crankshft OD 1 2
A Yellow Green
B Green Brown
Hope this helps.
On the left side (stator side) of the engine behind the flywheel there will be 5 letters A, B, or C in any specific order. (Example AABAC)
There will be a number & a letter on each rod. The number is the ID code & the letter is the weight code. You need the number. You can purchase a single rod if needed. They do not come as a set.
Next look at the crankshaft & find the letters & numbers. The numbers go with the main journals. So the letters on the left side of the cases & the numbers on the crank need to be cross referenced to get the correct bearing. The letters on the crank & the numbers on the rods go together & need to be cross referenced to get the correct bearing.
The letter on the rod (weight code) is not used. It can be used if you have say 2 A's & 2 B's. In that case you would want to put the A's on the outside & the B's in the middle or vise versa. Dont make it so you have an(ABAB). Make it so you have (ABBA) or (BAAB) If the letters dont match say you have 3 different letters then it doesn't really matter where they go.
An oil pump will also be needed as well as a serious cleaning to get rid of all the garbage that has been flowing in the engine.
Crankcase ID code
Crankshaft OD A B C
1 Pink Yellow Green
2 Yellow Green Brown
------------------------------------------------------
Con Rod ID
Crankshft OD 1 2
A Yellow Green
B Green Brown
Hope this helps.
Last edited by Project96; 04-22-2010 at 12:05 AM.
#5
#6
#7
Honda cbr 600f3
Hi there sir i am also busy with my crank bearings at the moment i have the manual i got my casing codes i just dont find any numbers or codes on my crank . My crank is clean with no numbers. I measured my crank with a vernier as i dnt have a micrometer all my main journals measure between 32.85-32.9 is that how it is surpose to be as i see the std main bearing is 33m if im right .
conrod journals are 31.35 more a less can anyone pls help me as im just abit unsure about the measurements or what it is surpose to measure if anyone can tell me what the std measurements of the main and bigend journals are ill appreciate it .?
conrod journals are 31.35 more a less can anyone pls help me as im just abit unsure about the measurements or what it is surpose to measure if anyone can tell me what the std measurements of the main and bigend journals are ill appreciate it .?
#8
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