Had a mishap and got a breather hose caught between the chain/primary drive and the engine case. After clearing away 19 years of old chain lube and removing the primary drive sprocket I found that the seal is now leaking where the counter shaft meets the case. It's not just a few drops either, with the engine warm at idle it's coming out at a steady click.

It does not look like this seal can be replaced without removing the engine and cracking open the case. My generic (read $h1ty) Clymer manual doesn't give me any specifics about the seal that I can find.

Anybody know the details on replacing this seal and does it require shop-specific tools?? Engine in or engine out repair??

Did a search and found jack.

 

I think I read somewhere that it can be "picked out" and the new one "pushed in". But cant remember where.

 

I found the countershaft oil seal part number and it's only 10 - 12 dollars US. I have not found anything online about a pick-out push-in procedure but some of my reading has said if the seal is leaking it could mean the bearing behind the seal is damaged. Because I had a large chunk of breather hose wedged into the drive cover it makes me wonder if this could be a bigger problem than just what's on the surface. I don't think a 6 inch piece of rubber could put enough pressure on a steel shaft to damage the shaft bearing but I'm not 100% convinced. I'm going to talk to a trusted local mechanic (shameless plug) ******* and see if he has any recommendations. Still looking for feedback from anyone who may have experience with this issue.

 

There is a bearing on the countershaft, and it is part of the countershaft assembly - behind that is a set ring, which keeps the bearing in place.

I'm with you Johnny, in thinking it's not likely that a small ID/OD rubber hose being pulled through the sprocket/chain, could damage the bearing, but a seal, I could see the seal being buggered, so I would just replace the seal, and try it out.

But, that's where there is still bad news... if I remember correctly, that seal has a lip which is retained behind the joint of the cases, so if that is the case, you would still have to split the cases to change this seal.

 

Spoke with two different mechanics today and they confirmed the engine has to be removed and case opened up to replace the oil seal. I found a diagram online of the counter-shaft assembly and, as JNS said, there's a lip on the back side of the oil seal that keeps it in place.

Now I have to consider whether to have my local mechanic fix this or do it myself this winter. I'm weighing the pro's and con's of paying $$$ vs. starting a project like this with my work/travel schedule.

 

I'll post in This thread too.

Engine does not need to be dropped.

http://faq.f650.com/FAQs/CounterShaftSealFAQ.htm

Takes 30 minutes.

 

I had a look at the seal being replaced, that seal doesn't seem to have the lip that the f2 seal has, that might damage the new seal. Anyway thats just my 2 cents

 

have the same issue here after my accident i noticed some oil leaking from that area once i was able to ride again. figured out when i went down the chain ripped my jeans and threw it close up to the seal and just wrapped around and around till the seal gave out... hoping no further damage was done. But i would say take the time and split the cases to do the seal instead of "pull" and "pushing" one in just to have your season cut short