So i took off the carbs one day after hearing backfiring noises and decided to give it a good cleaning. Put them back on and threw some new HIDs on the bike and now it wont start at all and shows no spark with brand new plugs in it. I went through the service manual and did a diagnostic on it. Spark plus wires read in range, Ignition pulse coil in range, side stand switch line is good, ground line is good. The only one that shows up strange is the neutral line switch, but it shows the green light that it is in neutral. Is it still possible for it to still show that it is in neutral even if it is not. I took a piece of speaker wire and bypassed the neutral switch line(light green) and the neutral light would go off when not grounded and on when grounded. It is either a bad ICM or a bad neutral switch. Any suggestions on how to test further?

 

Won't start as in the starter will spin the motor, but the plugs won't light the fuel? Or will the starter not even engage, and turn over the motor?

 

The starter runs but no spark gets to the plugs.

 

Ok, well that eliminates the sidestand switch and neutral safety switch, as when those are engaged, it will not allow the starter to turn the motor over, however, the kill switch on the right-hand switchgear will allow the starter to spin but not allow spark - at least that's the way it is on both of my F2s.

Assuming the kill switch is in the right position , this might be the problem - this switch is exposed to the elements, so you can end up with corroded contacts in the switch, that need to be cleaned, and possibly re-soldered, depending on how bad they are.

When I had issues with one of mine, I would be riding along, and suddenly the motor would just shut off, though my headlight was still on, and my dash indicators were lit, but if I aggressively toggled the kill switch off and on, I could then start it and run again... the eventual fix was to clean the contacts and add some dabs of solder.

It does seem strange, though, that this just suddenly happened,and coincidentally, after you made some changes to the electrical system... have you checked to see if you blew any fuses, namely the main 30 amp fuse? Honestly, I can't remember if the main fuse cuts all power, or just power for ignition, like the kill switch.

 

Is there a simple way to bypass the kill switch, just to see if that is what is giving me problems. I would for sure fix that before running it on the road..don't need a run away bike on me and its not like I cant use the key as a kill switch right?

 

open the cover up, and put a jumper between the contacts on the kill switch. But - if you go to that level, just whip out the soldering iron, touch up the connections, and clean up the contact points.

 

What i did was tested it with a volt meter. Turns out there was no problem with the bike at all. Just didn't want to start, and i wasn't grounding out the plug when i tested for spark. Bike started up wonderfully after hooking it up to the car.