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Need Help now!!! Please!

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Old 09-17-2018, 12:17 AM
Brianbui23's Avatar
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Default Need Help now!!! Please!

I just purchased a 1992 Cbr 600 f2 with just over 30,000 miles on it. The previous owner dropped the bike in his drive way so the right fairing is cracked but zip tied tight.

I want to know what things tend to go bad around this mileage and if I am able to do them at home. I would say I'm decently capable with most car maintenance and oil changes are pretty much the same on bikes but is there anything too look out for?

The forks look good, tires and brakes are good (rear brake is mushy but front stops on a dime)the clutch is okay, just changed oil. And previous owner said he just replaced the sprocket but didn't know what metal is was made of.

Should I clean out the carbs?
Also I don't have a stand for the bike so need ideas on cleaning the chain.
Tge bike idles good but when on choke it starts up good even on colder days around 50F(lowest temp so far), problem is that it will be reving around 2,500 rpms then jump and stay at 4K.

Besides that, im not too sure what too look for, im newer to the bike scene but have been loving every second of it.

Anyone with tips would be appreciated!!
 
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Old 09-17-2018, 02:56 PM
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There really aren't any specific things that go bad at a certain mileage on bike. It really depends on how it was taken care of by the previous owner.
It's also more about the age, not the miles. Check all things rubber for cracks.

Common things for F2 are a rattling cam chain. It's more annoying than serious. Many people just replace them with manual ones.
If it's got the original style reg/rec, it's only a matter of time before it will fail. Just keep this in mind for later.
If it was me, I'd also check the valve clearances just to be sure. There are lots of write-up on how to do this.
You only need to clean the carbs if you are having a problem. Most common is the bike will stall when the choke is shut off.
If you aren't having any issues running, then leave the carbs alone. The rpms will jump as the bike warms up, just as long as they go back to normal when you shut the choke off.

If you don't have a stand, then buy one. That's easy.
 

Last edited by Phil314; 09-17-2018 at 03:00 PM.
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Old 09-17-2018, 03:52 PM
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I've found that the best way to predict how much trouble a bike's gonna give you is to look at the license plate sticker and check the year that it was last registered. If it's current, she probably won't need much, but if it's more than a couple years, I'd settle in for a bit of work. The older a bike is, the faster it'll decay if left to rot. Almost every job on a bike can be done at home and is generally much easier than cars cause they're much simpler. A stand will make lots of jobs easier

Sounds like most of the basics are there, and if the bike runs, you probably won't have a lot of preemptive maintenance to worry about. Have you tried setting the idle speed? 2500 is way too fast for idle. You want it down around 1000 if it runs reliably (or maybe 1200 if it's choppy). If you can't get it to idle properly, that's a sign that the pilot jets are clogged and would need a cleaning. Make sure to try with fresh fuel, and change the fuel filter along with any cracked fuel hose

For the sake of being diligent, it's probably a good idea to start with a good visual, and retorque any critical fasteners (axles, swingarm pivot, motor mounts, etc)

Fixing the mushy rear brake is probably just a matter of bleeding the brake fluid. It might be a good time to replace the brake fluid, and a coolant flush is also worthwhile. You can tell if it's an aluminum sprocket since it won't be magnetic, but either way if it's new I wouldn't worry about it
 
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