cbr600f2
Something's missing here... it's either something very simple, or, very complex, as in the CDI or coils failing entirely.
Based on what we've discussed, the only thing we haven't touched, if I remember correctly, is the R/R... have you checked the condition of the wiring and plug, and run any tests on the R/R? There's definitely specs for testing that piece.
When you changed the plugs, did you only remove the leads from the spark plug end, or did you remove them from the coils as well, like, to clean the cables off?
Based on what we've discussed, the only thing we haven't touched, if I remember correctly, is the R/R... have you checked the condition of the wiring and plug, and run any tests on the R/R? There's definitely specs for testing that piece.
When you changed the plugs, did you only remove the leads from the spark plug end, or did you remove them from the coils as well, like, to clean the cables off?
Sorry it took a bit, we had to deal with some minor disasters last night, as a result of all the snow we've received in the last few days.
I only found my Honda manual, which is strange, since I know I've used my Haynes lately. I found some tests, but I'm not sure if there are more comprehensive items in the other manuals.
Here's what's in the Honda manual - there's a voltage test, a couple of resistance tests, and a few continuity tests, some of which won't help you, since if your side-stand switch didn't work, the engine wouldn't even turn over anyway, and it's easy enough to tell if you're neutral switch is working.
I only found my Honda manual, which is strange, since I know I've used my Haynes lately. I found some tests, but I'm not sure if there are more comprehensive items in the other manuals.
Here's what's in the Honda manual - there's a voltage test, a couple of resistance tests, and a few continuity tests, some of which won't help you, since if your side-stand switch didn't work, the engine wouldn't even turn over anyway, and it's easy enough to tell if you're neutral switch is working.
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