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Brake and Fork Seals

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Old Apr 18, 2010 | 02:51 PM
  #1  
Preid's Avatar
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Unhappy Brake and Fork Seals

I need to replace the brake master clyinder on my bike. Would any 600 sized cylinder fit with relative ease?

Ideally I want one of the newer ones with the plastic reservior. Theres a fair few on ebay from kawa's, suzukis ect which are going for £30ish p&p which I like the look of.

One of my forks seals split and dropped its guts all over shop. I rode home with it and it didnt feel too different. Im not really in a position financially to put it in to get repaired. Is it safe enough to ride with the one good fork? When the second seal does decide to go, I will put the bike in for repair.

Would a new set of 2nd hand forks be a cheaper option? I dare say I could fit new forks to a bike. After looking over the seal replacement sticky, I dont think I could replace a seal, looks a bit much for me.
 
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Old Apr 20, 2010 | 05:02 PM
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Default master and seal

it was most likely your dust cover that split if you dont notice it when your driving. you can just unbolt from the tree and slide a new one on. as for the master most will work just make sure that its from a dual caliper system and goes on a 7/8" bar. hope that helps.
 
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Old Apr 20, 2010 | 05:05 PM
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Default seal

if you watch a video on youtube showing a fork seal install you can see the difference between the dust boot and the seal.
ex. the seal is under the dust boot.
 
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Old Apr 20, 2010 | 06:35 PM
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Default

Im new to this so go easy.

Is there ment to be fluid behind the dust seal? I dont notice any difference when driving. When a seal usually goes, does the front end slump down?

Cheers for the replies, much welcomed.
 
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Old Apr 20, 2010 | 07:51 PM
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The way the forks are assembled is as follows. You have the smaller chrome tube that slides in and out of the fork slider. Recessed inside the fork slider, around the chrome fork tube, is the oil seal, which holds oil inside the fork slider. You cannot get at it with the forks together. The dust seal slides in on top of the lip of the fork slider, and is easily accessible with a flathead screwdriver. To remove it, stabilize the bike, jack the front end up (this can be accomplished with a jack and a piece of wood under the headers), remove the front wheel, loosen the triple tree clamp at the top, and the fork clamp under that, which you can get at beneath the front fairing. The fork should then slide out, slide out the old dust seal, put in a new one. Done.

You may not notice a large difference, at least at first, with a leaking fork. The spring does a lot of the work, and if only one is leaking, the other will try to take up the slack. Look for a layer of oil or dirt above your seals on the fork tube. If it's clean, your oil seal is still probably good.

Two things will happen if you wait too long to replace the dust seal:

1) Dirt will be able to get at the oil seal, possibly ruining its sealing properties and introducing a leak.

2) Once leaking, one fork will lose its ability to dampen the forces acting on your bike. The other fork will eventually then start leaking because it's doing the work of both forks and will be overloaded.
 

Last edited by FuzzyWuzzyBear; Apr 20, 2010 at 07:53 PM.
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Old Apr 22, 2010 | 12:31 PM
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I cant get replacement seals for a week or so, until then Ill clean the fork and take some pics of the damage.

BBS
 
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