Google search "pdfruth" before you buy that servo buddy. Much cheaper.

Those Servo motors are weird. You have it the HTEV wired open, so delete it. It's a cool little mod. It only costs about $20 or so. I ran my servo motor on the bike for a little while with no problems like that. Of course, I wasn't getting any codes, so I didn't look into it. But is it throwing codes 34 or 35? Those are the servo codes if I remember correctly.

 

First result on Google.

 

If you are running the stock exhaust your best option is to keep the servo motor attached to the htev and allow it to work as it was designed. Locking the exhaust valve in the open position will hurt your low to midrange power. This will help your bike run better and keep it from throwing any MIL/FI lights.

Also if your IAT sensor in the airbox has a problem it could be causing your rich condition. If the bike is sensing a lower air temp it will add more fuel. This is how fogger nos setups add more power by tricking the temp sensor to thinking the air is colder so the ecu will add more fuel.

Do you have the service manual? It has the procedure to check the IAT to see if its bad.

 

Conrice- I'm buying the resistors and stuff to do the DIY servo buddy for cheap. I can solder well. And It is a code 35.

Bacdoc- thanks for the advice and info. When I experianced this same exact problem before I went through and tested the all switches and sensors along with the IAT as shown In the manual (used volt meter and heat gun). It seemed to drop volts as it heated up if remrember correctly. I assume its good. Guess I'll run a check on it again to see exactly how much voltage drop.