My 954 is running rich at idle to 70 mph. From 70- top speed fuel/ air ratio is perfect, so the dyno sheet says. All components seem to check out ok (fpr, map sensor, ect). Only things I have not been able to check are the ecu and fuel ump pressure. Are there any more that I've missed? I assume these parts are good because I've ridden my bike on two 900 mile trips to TN and back and runs good except running rich as described. And I ride it on group rides on weekends and nearly everyday to work with no problems.

I've been told by a riding buddy that seems to know a little about bikes that I should try to switch from the k&n filter I have in it back to a oem filter and that might help correct the problem, assuming there is nothing with any of the sensors and such.

On the other hand, I have a bike shop owner / pro dyno tuner/ saying that putting an oem filter back on will make it run more rich and will not help. He says I definatly need to let him put a pc 3 on it, put it on his dyno for a custom tune for sure.

The money I don't care about I just want to know what I should do? Can I put a oem filter back on it to make it run better? Is the tuner guy being really honest or is he just try to make a sale? Please help.

 

Think I'd throw the OEM filter in first and see. The PC3 would only mask the issue when he tunes out the richness. Find out what the OEM filter does is my suggestion

As for can she run better with the OEM filter? Very possible. There's some debate about swapping the filters on the s1ks. Some report better performance with the OEM.

 

Ok, thanks. glad to hear that trying a new oem filter first won't be a total waste of money. Can you go into some more detail about what you mean when you say it might mask the problem? What problem do mean? Also are there any sensors that tells the ecu to dump more fuel under certain conditions and why? Just curious. is this a common problem with the 954 (running rich on low end)? Thanks.

 

I mean this: When I got my F3, it had a massive flat spot. I dropped in a jet kit and tried tuning it out with some success. But it only masked the underlying problem. The bike was so rich it was drowning. I finally found the problem, a bad solenoid, and bypassed it ($0). She then ran like what she was: a jetted beast.

It's like turning the idle screw to "fix" a low idle problem. Sure the symptoms may have gone away. But if the problem still exists, you're not getting the true performance you should. Unless your bike has the mods to justify a PC3, you'd be wasting the investment somewhat. iMO

 

i understand exactly what you mean. if i have a bad electrical component or switch that effects fuel flow wouldnt it throw a code though? (im new to FI), my bike throws no codes. the MIL light and the FI light comes on and off randomly. im thinking thats because of the mods and not a big deal. dont know.

only things ive done is pair valve mod, flapper mod, htev wired to wide open position all the time, k&n air filter, d&d bolt on. that cone shaped oem baffle thing on the inside of the exhaust has been removed too.

PS- if it matters, bike has 138.3 at the wheel, so its running strong. wouldnt it not run near its full potential if it has a major problem with electrical or a sensor (fuel injectors or fuel pump pressure, ect..).? idk, just throwing stuff out there.

i dont know what else to test. about to give up and take it to a shop and get ripped off.

 

Your bike should not throw MIL/FI lights unless there is a problem. Have you checked the memory of the ecu for trouble codes?

1. Turn kill switch to "OFF"
2. Short service connector
3. Turn key "on" and kill switch "on"
4. Solid MIL=no codes where blinking MIL=trouble code stored in memory.

 

Yes its throwing codes. Codes are 9,2,3,4,5 all short blinks. then 3 long blinks followed by 5 short blinks. Huh, I'll have to look it up. At work now.

 

Codes are for the air sensor in the air box, all injectors and faulty servo motor. I just reset the ecu and it does not throw codes any more but, the servo motor continueously runs.

I just went through this same exact scenerio a coulpe months ago and it was the kick stand connection. Stand switch was deleted by the previous owner and the connection had been twisted together. After time the connection got corroded from the elements and went bad. When I reconnected it with fresh wire and a buttend connector the mil light went off, It threw no codes and the servo motor stopped running constantly. Only thing it did after that was that the mil and FI light would come on randomly. The FI light always comes on and off randomly without any codes for the last two months until now. Also the bike was dynoed during this time and showed it was running rich under 70mph even without the codes being trown and the mil and FI light on. I'll check the side stand switch and for good connection. I might just hook the stand switch back up. Won't this bike run ok with the side stand switch deleted as long as I have the two wires conected? If I find that the stand switch wire is loose again and is causing this, I'm thinking about getting the servo buddy and connecting it along with reinstalling the side stand switch. Idk this **** is getting old.

 

Anyone have any ideas,or explaination of what might be going on if the stand switch connection is good? Will the servo motor set the mil and fi light off? What's tripping the ecu I wonder? Bike runs good and strong, no spuddering, misfiring or hesittation. Nothing like that.

 

ok, its the servo motor thats causing the mil and fi light to come on. when turn the ignition in the on position after the fuel pump priming noise goes off the servo motor keeps spinning. then i reach down and turn the little metal piece on the bottom of the servo (where the cables attach) sometimes it spins all the way around (360) until it kinda catches on a gear or something then wont turn. at that same time it stops making the buzzing noise and the mil and fi light goes off again. when i ride the mil light stays off for a while then comes back on. wtf, dont know. any suggestions?