Todays DYNO Numbers at Dynojet
#11
RE: Todays DYNO Numbers at Dynojet
I'm using a fogger system now which uses both a nitrous feed and a fuel feed into 1 nozzle. If you do it this way you dont have to add fuel through the power commander and run the same map when using nitrous or not. To get the right mix for a 40 hp increase use a #36 jet for nitrous and a #22 jet for fuel. Yesterday Dusty at Dynojet and myself re-tuned the bike so it can run off the same map, so I know that combination of jets is perfect. Fuel map is tuned at 13.2 air/fuel and stays perfectly flat with the 36/22 combo and adds exactly 40 hp. Injectors, rail, and pump are original and dont need to be changed. Basically your spraying the nitrous/fuel mix @ 8" in front of the throttle bodies. No need to upgrade any of those components because they dont work any harder than usual.
I just bought a 4/6 cylinder universal powerfogger system at Checker Auto Parts for $500. Just follow the instructions and its pretty easy. But instead of using the microswitch for the trigger, either tie it into your horn button, or you could use a relay output from the dynojet hub like I did. This way I set it to engage at 95% TP and greater than 3000 rpm. I had it set to 5000 rpm and I actually lost 10 hp on the Dyno. Pretty weird, we were rubbing our heads over that one.
Let me know if you have any questions.
BTW... I got offered a position at Dynojet after they had worked with me a few times. Yall probably don't care, but I'm pretty excited.
Laters
I just bought a 4/6 cylinder universal powerfogger system at Checker Auto Parts for $500. Just follow the instructions and its pretty easy. But instead of using the microswitch for the trigger, either tie it into your horn button, or you could use a relay output from the dynojet hub like I did. This way I set it to engage at 95% TP and greater than 3000 rpm. I had it set to 5000 rpm and I actually lost 10 hp on the Dyno. Pretty weird, we were rubbing our heads over that one.
Let me know if you have any questions.
BTW... I got offered a position at Dynojet after they had worked with me a few times. Yall probably don't care, but I'm pretty excited.
Laters
#14
RE: Todays DYNO Numbers at Dynojet
Jhswain:
I actually like the set-up you have gone with. Like it allottttttttttttt... The wet portion of the system takes allot of "nail bite" ing out of using nitrous.
[blockquote]Only major qustion. Where does the wet part of the system get the added fuel from? Does that automotive system come with some type of auxillery fuel pump or something? I would assume this would be fed by the pressure regualtor return line?
Wish those kits weren't so exspesive either[sm=boosign.gif][sm=headbang.gif]
[/blockquote]
I actually like the set-up you have gone with. Like it allottttttttttttt... The wet portion of the system takes allot of "nail bite" ing out of using nitrous.
[blockquote]Only major qustion. Where does the wet part of the system get the added fuel from? Does that automotive system come with some type of auxillery fuel pump or something? I would assume this would be fed by the pressure regualtor return line?
Wish those kits weren't so exspesive either[sm=boosign.gif][sm=headbang.gif]
[/blockquote]
#15
RE: Todays DYNO Numbers at Dynojet
There are 2 ways to get the fuel to the nozzle. 1) add an external fuel pump, drill and plumb your tank with second line, and add an external pressure reg. You would then base your jetting according to that fuel pressure for the NOS system. Or you could (as suggested in the kit instructions) 2) Snip the rubber line between the fuel pump and rail and add a tee (also supplied). You dont want to tie it into the return line. You want to feed the NOS system a consistent steady fuelsource directly after the pump.
BTW... the kit costs so much because of the damn 10 lb. bottle. I bought it because I wanted the 10 lb bottle to use as a refill station. On thebike I used to have a 1 lb. bottlemounted in the tailsection, buthave replaced it with a 2.5 lb bottle in my tailsection after modifying the fender eliminator. So you could buy a nozzle, jets, line, various AN fittings (#4 AN), and 2 solenoids (1 nitrous and 1 fuel) for a lot less. Then when your finished, chose what size bottle to run, andpick one up used.
If you decide to try this here is a tip I picked up while doing mine. It can be a bitch finding a place to mount the solenoids but here is the best place I found. In the front of our frame there is a brace between the 2 side framerails right behind the neck area. Take the solenoids, mount the tab on it, then bend it twice so the tab can be mounted on top of the rail, and the solenoid will fit under the rail, above an injector coil. Works great, keeps the lines short to the nozzle, and tucks them away nicely.
Another tip: get a BMC air filter because it is made of plastic unlike the K&N which is rubber. Then drill a hole through it in the center, a few inches back from the filter element. Thats the best place to mount the nozzle. Aim it straight back firing into the throttle bodies. If any of this was confusing let me know and I'll send you some pictures of mine.
Today I also did the Sunday Freeway Roll-on races and smoked a GSXR by over 6 car lengths in the 7/8 mile race. Changing to the stock gearing helped tremendously.
Laters
BTW... the kit costs so much because of the damn 10 lb. bottle. I bought it because I wanted the 10 lb bottle to use as a refill station. On thebike I used to have a 1 lb. bottlemounted in the tailsection, buthave replaced it with a 2.5 lb bottle in my tailsection after modifying the fender eliminator. So you could buy a nozzle, jets, line, various AN fittings (#4 AN), and 2 solenoids (1 nitrous and 1 fuel) for a lot less. Then when your finished, chose what size bottle to run, andpick one up used.
If you decide to try this here is a tip I picked up while doing mine. It can be a bitch finding a place to mount the solenoids but here is the best place I found. In the front of our frame there is a brace between the 2 side framerails right behind the neck area. Take the solenoids, mount the tab on it, then bend it twice so the tab can be mounted on top of the rail, and the solenoid will fit under the rail, above an injector coil. Works great, keeps the lines short to the nozzle, and tucks them away nicely.
Another tip: get a BMC air filter because it is made of plastic unlike the K&N which is rubber. Then drill a hole through it in the center, a few inches back from the filter element. Thats the best place to mount the nozzle. Aim it straight back firing into the throttle bodies. If any of this was confusing let me know and I'll send you some pictures of mine.
Today I also did the Sunday Freeway Roll-on races and smoked a GSXR by over 6 car lengths in the 7/8 mile race. Changing to the stock gearing helped tremendously.
Laters
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