Oh, I had to edit something in my last post that you copied. I mean that you set the valve timing with the ignition rotor on the crank because it has those timing marks.

 

When #4 piston is up, so is #1. If your cams lined up with #4 up, that's still #1 tdc.

 

Thanks guys I am going to adjust the timing on Wednesday and see how that goes.

 

Well I pulled the engine and the timing was off by a lot (not even close) so I decided to go ahead and build the engine since it is out. I will be ordering wiseco 76mm pistons soon. I did not want to take the engine out and put it in only to take it out again in a month or so. I hope once the engine is rebuilt I can put it back in and not have any problems. I will start a build thread soon since the engine is not all I have planned.

 

So I got the bike tore done and I am getting ready to buy my pistons and send the top off to millennium technologies for over bore and re-plate. I have a question though, should I go with the wiseco piston kit or buy stock oversized pistons and rings. If I stay stock my compression will be much lower, but the wiseco kit is forged and will probably hold up better. Is the higher 13.5.1 compression okay to run on the street as a almost daily driver. I will not be doing any type of racing just going on rides and cruising around. I am not saying that the bike will be completely babied but it will not be abused.

 

13.5 is on the higher side - but if you look at what bikes today are running (zx10r is 13.0:1 --- s1000r is 13.0:1----r6 is 13.1:1), so it's not a crazy like WSBK motors that are at 15:1.

You'll actually have to run 93 octane. The main thing to consider would be traffic. If you were to get bogged down in traffic for a very long time - it could be an issue with heat.

As you know, my motor has only ran for a few seconds because I'm still in the process of building my bike, so I can't speak to the engine temperature thing. But mobbins has been running his (same pistons) with no issues reported so far.



The way I looked at is this: You're spending the same money either way. It's a waste if you had a good functional bottom end (which you did, right?) to keep the same bore and compression ratio. So if you're going to rebuild it, you might as well get some power out of it. Now, an overbore itself raises the compression ratio because of the increase in volume even with the same piston profile. They do have other options for compression ratio if you're that worried about it.

 

I was just worried if there would be any issues with heat or will I need to do some tuning. Yes, my bottom end was in good spec, I do plan on new bearings and the bolts that we discussed. I had the grooving in the side of the piston walls and that was my main reason for the rebuild. I took out the engine to set the timing and then just figured I would go ahead with the rebuild. I am buying my parts for my rebuild within the next couple weeks and once I receive my pistons I will send them and the top case off to millennium. After all is said and done I will be $1,600 on the rebuild but I know it will be right. To this day I have still not heard the engine or rode the bike. I have another $1,000 in mods that I will be doing over the winter as well. She will be a stunner when I am done and hopefully be a runner as well. LOL

 

So I bought everything I need 2 do the rebuild. The pistons and gasket will be a couple weeks out and some of the other parts that need to be new will be here soon. As soon as I get the pistons the top and the pistons will be sent off to millenium. I will start a build thread as soon as I get everything back from millenium. The frame, swingarm, subframe and a bunch of other pieces need to go to the powdercoater before the engine goes back in. I also have a lot of other mods that need done as well so I will put all that in the build thread. I will be doing a $3,000 resto so it should be a nice thread for u all to enjoy.

 

Damn - I look forward to it!

 

Has anybody had any issues whit millenium? My casing was allso bored and plated by millenium and there has been some accident whit the casing. The crank bearing inserts are missing tiny pieces from the edges and the transmission oil orifice gallery/hole has a crack on it and it has been bent so that the orifice don't fit in it. But they don't reply to email or anything and it surprises me that they send it to me broken and didn't even try to fix it or inform me about it.