It could have helped a bit to remove to intake snorkels because the diameter of them is ridiculously small and the shape is very restrictive compared the new 1000:s intakes/ram airs but we really didn't see any point in doing that because the man that tuned it was amazed at the length of the 954 velocity stacks. He guessed that the intake runners length with the oem stacks is way too long. That it starts to kills the air velocity of the intake way before even the 12k rpms where it has peak hp. I'll take the head of when the riding season is over and well run the engine specs trough engine analyzer software and see what changes should be made to cams, cam timing, airbox, headers and maybe try to fiddle a little bit with the head. The dyno tuner i use is the same one that fixed my upper casing. A former national drag racing champion that all of the "big boys" use. He builds bikes/motor allso for customers from turbo or NOS to NA racing motors. They just seem to make "a bit" more power then the one i build

But it still it has enough power to get a long just fine this season. This dyno is very tight. Actually my bike has more power then 08 1000RR or R1. And pretty much same as stock 10R and GSX-R from 08 and it's noticebly lighter then them. The engine is allso very responsive so it's very fun to ride.

 

Yeah, I doubt you need that length of stack. Remember that thread on fireblades.org that we talked about 1000rr electronics on? That guy made 7hp on the TBs alone when he put them on his 929 that was otherwise stock (minus some bolt-ons).

Did your tuner mention anything about the amount of adjustment he had to make on the power commander? Anything like, " I'm surprised I didn't need to add more fuel."?

 

I do remember. And the 1000RR stacks aren't even half the length of 954. I thought about the stacks before the dyno but i have no intention of buying 2 set of stacks. Remember that i have the other tb:s waiting at the garage. For those i'll get stacks when we have done the calculations to know what length would be recommended and what is available. Allso if you look at the signature of user letsride hes bike with full exhaust and short factory pro stacks is peeking at 12k rpm. So is my engine which is kind of funny

He didn't mention anything this time but he thought it was odd last time when the bolts snapped. After 12k the AFR had a noticeable bump to rich. The PC3 highjacks the crank signal from the crank position sensor and starts to feed the signal from 11750 to it when the rev-limiter is exceeded so that could have something to do with it but allso it could indicate that the air flow stalls.

I'll check the map at weekend but the there is lot of fuel added through the map and my fuel pressure is 5 psi:s higher then stock.

 

Now, is that so that you get a stronger spray pattern, thus better atomization at the higher rpms?

 

No. It's to get more flow to the injectors so that the duty cycle stays smaller. But it didn't make high hp numbers so probably the stock pressure would have been fine The difference in the pressure is so small and the best pressure for the pattern would have to be checked by testing the injectors. Normally the pattern might get marginally better by increasing the pressure but that allways isn't the case. And it could allso be equally good at 3 to 4 bars. Normal injector should start to have problems after 4 bars.. The normal operating range for normal injectors is about 2.5-4 Bars or thats what i'm told. Busa uses 3 bars stock versus the 954:s 3.5 bars so that makes a bigger difference if i turn the pressure to 4 bars when i get some Busa parts fitted. If it's even possible without too much trouble

 

I was wondering about that. Some busa guys modify their fprs thinking they'll see a bump in hp, saying its because the spray pattern changes to give them better atomization. I've been looking into it because Honda suggests 50 psi for the 1000rr fuel rail. Since I'm going to use a gixxer fuel pump (which only puts out 42-43psi), I think I'll need to modify the fpr to get at least that 50 psi with the dual injection. I was wondering though, if you thought a touch above 50 would even be better.

 

Disamble the pump and remove the fpr out of it and get an external one. The pump can pump certain amount of the fuel regardless of the of the pressure and if it's of an gixer it will be enough. I have one of the cheap chinese ones mounted at the servo motors mounting. Well i don't see it hurt anything when you stay under 4 bars (58 psi). The spray could be marginally better so i would use little higher pressure.

 

Can I use an external fpr on a one line system? (gix and the 1krr are both 1 line systems)

 

With small modifications to the tank you can. There is different ways setting it up but you would need at least a bung for return line to tank. Or you could modify the 954 pump to fit the GSX-R tank. That's what they did on the red fighter. Not sure thought did they modify the tank or pump.

 

Hmm, I'll have to look into that. It'd be much easier to test that way rather than modifying the FPR on the pump...