Theres a guy named 5150 over at the org that wrote this maybe you should shoot him a pm......

A couple fo years back had a wiring problem, engine keep on stalling/suddenly dies. When it happened it wil always blow a fuse. After few days of painstaking searching, me and buddies discovered that some wires were located on the right side (if we're on the bike) of the engine head thus melting the rubber insulated wires. Replaced the burned wires and relocated them.

his post is #31 in 954 too many miles post

 

Yes yes, That will happen very easily, Im wraping mine in insulation with tape around it when i put it back in.

Fireblades look good just sitting, but they look a hell of a lot better doing 150mph. Haha, yea those wiring diagrams are a crap shoot for sure, i gave up on trying to find one and started using a 929 diagram and peiceing it all together myself.

Replacing the main harness is allways a good start, it just eliminates a billion variables, and if it does not solve your problem then you know that its somewhere besides the main harness and you can sell the extra one for the same price as you bought it, check out ebay, if nothing else i can get them at my local shop for $75 a peice and ship one to you, $75 is not great but its not bad since it is right here in town and in stock. I dont like playing the waiting game for parts.

But getting the main harness is how i found my problem, after putting the new one in i knew it was either the headlight harness, one of the clipon controls, the ignition, or simple things like headlight or tail light, so i just unplugged the headlight, the tail light, turnsignals, leftside clip on switches and tried it again. Still blew the fuse so that narrowed it down to right side clipon switch or ignition, and then i found it. At least im still hoping so, waiting on parts to arrive still, i hate it.

 

Cool, thanks bro. I hit him up a few mins ago. I hope I get a response.

 

Are those new Harnesses for $75? Thats a deal if it is. I want one.

 

I have a feeling that my problems arein the ignition. Im having trouble getting the bolts loose. I was using a size 6 hex, but it seem like one of those bolts that only tighten. Any suggestions?

 

Hey, did you check the power at the ignition? I cant remember if it was this thread or another one but the pink wire should have 9.5volts (you must have it plugged in and check from the back of the plug for this test) the other two should have ~12volts i think, pink one is the inportant one...

But, sorry the harnesses are used for $75, about 175 new, but my used one works great and its now a spare.

But, I found out it was not my harness, it was not my switch either, It ended up being the ECU, I couldnt believe it but thats what it was,

Dogstar before you start buying up parts lets check some stuff, It might be as simple as that, and you can get them for about 150 on ebay or i can get you one from the shop for $125+shipping(used of course).

But if you can we need to see what error codes it is throwing buy jumping the error code wire by the battery and then the ecu needs to be unplugged and its physical quality needs to be examined very closely, there are some easy little signs that can tell if your ecu is takin a **** on ya, wish i would have known before. But check for codes first, they tell a lot. And if that gives us nothing move on to removing the ecu.

Do you know where to jumper that wire to get the error codes? If not let me know and i can walk you through it, but jumper that and then count the red blinks on the instrument cluster when you start the bike.

 

I have done the jumper before I took it all apart, and I got no error codes. In order for me to check the ignition wires, I have to hook the battery back up. I do have a feeling itsa loose wire in theignition, but I cant get that damn thing off. I was trying to avoid taking off the whole triple tree, but it looks like im gonna have to, and drill out the ignition.

 

Hey man, one of the main reasons for getting no error code when you have a fuse blowing is a bad ecu. if the ecu is dead or part of it is not working it will not give you a code, so no code is a good start, mine did not give me a error code either and then i replaced the ecu and it fired right up and i ran it pretty good and it held up without blowing any fuses. If you have it all apart just unplug the ecu and look at the pins, make sure they are all straight and none of them have green or white corrosion on them, also there should be clear oil on the orange insulation around the pins, it looks like its wet if the oil is there, and after that look around the back of the ecu where the black and grey go into the computer and its all smooth shiny black, make sure there is nothing around the seams and edges and all of it looks smooth and undistorted and gloss black color. If you find any one of those things its likly that your ecu has taken a crap, let us know.

 

Hey you get that harness yet???? It should have been there before now, let us know whats up

 

Something i do to try and find shorts within a wiring harness is to remove the fuse and hook up a light in it's place. If the short is present it will burn bright, and if it isn't an active short it will be dim or not on at all. So with having the light connected instead of the fuse I go around playing with wires and connectors until it acts up. Then depending where it is, you may need to cut into the harness to expose the frayed wire. But sometimes shorts don't show up and you need to keep trying and just try to visually look and maybe you'll get lucky and run into it. Sometimes you just need to walk away by then and just get back to it later on, after a beer and some TV.