Hey all,

Picked up a winter project, and I'd appreciate any insight, suggestions etc...

2001 Erion Edition, aftermarket fairing kit in rough shape, and yellowing showing on the gas tank. What would you guys suggest to clean the yellowing off the tank? Any particular liquid work well? I will likely try to find a good Erion fairing kit to replace the current kit.

Main seat does not lock into place. I see there are holes for a screw on the underside of the seat; I assume prev. owner removed these for some reason?

Rear seat cowl is lifted ~0.5" in the front, and the back of it is locked in place. I cannot access this, and it appears that the lock on the underside of the tail is missing. Perhaps prev. owner locked this in place?

Ignition switch seemed very tricky/finicky to start. I sat for a few minutes trying to get it to turn on (finally worked). Prev. owner started it very easily, I may be missing the technique to turn the ignition?

Also cannot figure out how to open the gas tank. Got the lock mechanism to turn 270 degrees, but couldn't figure out how to actually open the tank.

Bike has been dropped on the stator cover and has a chunk missing from the crankcase. Friend of mine is a professional welder and says he will take a look. If this is troublesome to do correctly, what are the odds that a lower crankcase can work w/ my motor? I saw somewhere that the main bearings must match from current motor to donor crankcase. Would it be easier at that point to swap a new motor in?

Exhaust looks like the shape of an Erion but the nameplate is missing, likely a knockoff Erion exhaust?

Aside from this, bike needs a few misc. pieces: grips, mirrors, doesn't have a power commander. Any other common things I should look for as a new 929rr owner?

Can't wait to dive into this thing next spring!

 

To answer some of my own questions:

Rear seat cowl is missing the lock mechanism but I can reach under and flip the lock handle to open. Still tough to shut. Will likely replace the lock mechanism.

Main seat is missing two bolts/washers (found via online catalog). I have ordered these screws and hopefully will keep the seat down.

Gas tank has been figured out how to open. Appears that the lock for the gas tank and ignition are different so different key works for either. 3/4 turn, the pull the latch upwards to open.

Will update with pictures throughout the welding process. We will need to weld about a 1" x 0.5" square where one of the threads are (where the stator cover screws into the crankcase). We will install a wide enough piece to allow us to tap into the newly welded section. Hopefully this is enough to keep the leaking at bay, and if not, we will likely follow up with JB Weld if appropriate.

Exhaust turns out to be a D&D Exhaust. I will be looking to exchange or sell for an original Erion exhaust.

EDIT: Is there a common CBR Classifieds to search for the exhaust? Or should I check ebay regularly.

 

Sounds like you're off to a good start. I will say that if the lower crankcase can't be saved, you'll probably want to replace the whole motor, since they are machined as a pair and crankshaft clearances would get weird. Plus it'd be a whole bunch of work since you'd basically be in for a whole rebuild. Not that that's a bad thing. If you went that route I'd probably recommend you buy the upper and lower, reusing pistons and other major components, while replacing rings, seals, and bearings. Then you start on a fresh block, but as I say, it's a lot more work

A locksmith should be able to rekey the tank lock. It's cheap and saves from needing two keys for the bike

ebay is my go-to for used parts, especially for less common models. An alternative would be to try and find a parts bike, esp if you need to replace the engine, though it's rare to find one with decent exhaust

Good hunting

 

Wanted to post an update with a couple of pics of the carnage before and after welding.


Before Welding








After Welding







Used a Gasket Maker and JB Weld after the Aluminum Weld to keep it sealed. No leakage what so ever at this point and the bike is running again.

I was not the one who welded it, was done by a longtime professional welder who didn't express concern with the weld, but advised to used the Gasket Maker and JB Weld as a precautionary measure. Sand the excess aluminum weld with a Dremel tool w/ various attachments, and got the face nearly perfectly flat. Ridden in ~15 miles since and not a single oil drop or issue related to the crankcase since.

And fyi, one section (shown in the first picture) knocked a chunk off which was welded back in place. There was also another chunk missing that was completely built up with aluminum.