Whats up y'all!

Hello I bought a cbr had been crashed, hit left side(tbone or sideswiped?),
sat for 5 years
key broke during purchase, currently no gas cap. had a new key made for tank, partially works on the ignition but not the right fit for tank or ignition. broke the lock to get it open.
I cleaned the gunk out the tank, NO RUST!!! just varnish and darkend gunky gas
replaced fuel line, clean the fuel system and looked at injectors, looked decent but I didn't test or deep clean.
with jumpers it turned but no ignition
changed spark plugs, rough start, 87 gas and liquid sea foam for the first start, sounded like a bad knock, but 2 misfires in a 4 cylinder will sound pretty bad 87 91 or 93?
coil resistance was 1.9, 2.0, 3.0, 3.0, so I got two, the spec is 1.5 and for a week and a half I waited for some oem coils because I thought the spec was 3.0.....
new coil numbers are 1.9, 2.0, 1.5, 1.5, after first test ride it felt like occasional misfire so next to last step is replacing the 1.9 and 2.0 coils
left crankcase cap was cracked by low bolt, replaced and discovered jb weld on the bottom near edge of crankcase and inside the left crankcase cap following the original crack, I guess its common if the bike goes down on the left
ordered seat
neutral switch is partially connected, didn't work until first test drive. only starts with the clutch pulled in, doesn't recognize neutral to start, does while riding.
replaced the servo cables, servo motor is working at 3k and 8k rpms
replaced rusty chain, tires are still rubber and will need to be replaced but ok for now
so with the new battery it was time to get on and let the clutch out!
tried to move but stalled, instead of adjusting it, I just put on a new one, and BOOM
it pulled away into 1st, did a lap around the block, only got up to the 3rd gear under 40 miles an hour to check the gear change shoulda had a helmet on, because
the first turn I tried to make,swear to god it was like a baby learning to walk. I couldn't make a right hand turn and stay in the lane to change my life! turning either way was difficult as F@^& I had to go less then 5mph to turn and I still went wide. perfectly balanced no feet down I didn't feel like I had control of the handle bars at all it was 100% lean angle. Unlike my 1st two bikes I actually felt the handle bar pushing back on this cbr.
ARE CBRS, 2000 929, THAT DIFFiCULT TO TURN? Is it the riding position? Racing style bike? The fact I have not ridden a motorcycle in 5 years? It was laid down I dont have the details about the accident. I have to wait for 2 days because the bike yard doesn't open until Tuesday and I need two more coils
I need a clutch handle bolt, lube the chain adjust the throttle, bolt the servo motor


My first bike was an 02 or 03 Yamaha r6 and steering on there was easy
My second bike was an 03 or 04 Yamaha FZ6 and I dont remember steering being very difficult.

My truck just broke down and now I need to get this bike fully running by next week so I dont lose my jobs
in the meantime waiting for 2 coils the coolant is leaking out somewhere I just haven't found it yet because it wasn't a priority yet.

P.S. I'm thinking of a nickname for the bike. three choices I got are the dragon, the beast, or the monster.

Codes seen:
solid red with ignition turned on
solid red disappeared when running
solid red immediately when turned off
#2 W/ Kickstand down, map sensor ( wouldn't stay on at 60sec+ at first, but the map sen. hose wasn't connected) now it stays on, rideable, but I still get the code when the kick stand is down
solid red when kickstand is up
no MIL while riding
-can I just clean MAP sensor or fix it a new one is like $120+?
Servocode, went away with new cables attached
I have not started the list of wire checks and resets for a no blink MIL still operating because the pictures from the manual leave more to be desired :/

I will try to get a video soon.


Chain replaced

easy alignments

brakes still work...

china rear fairing, dog $#!^

How i bought it, no turn light, no fairings, no mirrors

oil leaking from left crank case cap

clutch and brake bars bent into bull horns

loos connectors, loose dash


loose ends to the left side behind light


left side on crank case

new one is on

servo not bolted.

 

That bike is pretty rough, but you're making good headway. To answer the only question in your post, it should turn like the other bikes you've had. I don't know if it's the bike or rusty skills, but I have no problem turning mine.

Nice MR2 by the way. I parted with mine a few years ago and miss it everyday.

 

good luck on your rebuild

 

I have a 954, the sucessor of the 929 and is very similar that the Haynes manual is the same for these bikes.
Comments:
- the bike should be very easy to turn, however the original steering ball bearings are quite weak. If these are locked up......
- the servo is probably not mounted because the exhaust valve is most likely missing. When the exhaust valve is turning heavy it burns up the servo motor. People thinkig the servo motor is the problem replace one after another while these servo motors are quite reliable as long as the axhaust valve is turning smoothly.
- My advise would be t pressure whash the bike to make sure you remove all the dirt, which can cause a lot of trouble in the future.
- with the coils I would also check all the connectors of the bike. since the bike is so dirty I would not trust the connectors to be clean and reliable. On the valve cover next to the coil plugs is also the valve pulse position sensor which is quite necessary for a good running bike.
- the handlebars don't look bent to me. Also these are aluminum aren't they?

good luck with the bike

 

UPDATE!

Fusebox was missing some fuses, headlights are working as of today
Did my first 10 mile test ride, 5 on surface roads and 5 on the freeway. Accelleration, maintaining speed is a bit jumpy, but it never cuts out for more than a "blip". The map code went away after I connected the tube to it. Clutch is touchy and kind of knocks while rolling out with the end of engaging. the knock does away when the clutch is completely released into 1st. this problem got worse with the clutch incorrectly tensioned. Knock occurs on engagement under 7mph(over 8mph not a sound), only in first gear if I let out the clutch to fast. Im thinking clutch? The "chatter" during , engaging 1st, acceleration, and maintaining speed, deplay in deceleration makes me think slipping clutch? 5 year old clutch pads?(and probably dry too). map sensor code hasn't come back, maybe exhaust valve not aligned correctly?

the bike had misfires at first, with coils replaced the misfires have stopped. now it seems like an inconsistent change in flow of air or fuel, or slipping clutch. I did not replace the injectors but they do switch on when tested with a battery. when I got on the freeway it was jumpy getting above 4k rpm I pushed it to 10k in 2nd and it was kind of sketchy with inconsistent acceleration, around 8k it cut out "blip" and pulled pretty hard, like a sensor was not keeping up with the air fuel ratio, or a clutch slip "blip". I was worried the clutch might slip and catch so I kept it in 3rd or 4th going 75 mph I think it was about 5 or 6k rpm. jumpy/chattery not really sure where to start here. clutch inspection, exhaust valve inspection, lubin all cables(ps,servo is not bolted on anything currently I was gonna make a bracket tomaro to stabilize it) the throttle cable feels smooth without getting stuck at all and I haven't even lubed it up yet. In neutral when I rev the bike and release the throttle the revs seem a bit slow to drop. Like its dragging to change its speed...de-accelerate?

I plan on doing a full inspection of the harness but Im still learning about testing wires with the meter and check-in for voltage. For example I watched a video how to test map, with 3 terminals one will be supply(V), Ground, and Signal. with the meter I got black end connected to the battery, key is on, red reads voltage between 5-10 coming from the signal and the supply. isn't it only supposed to come from the supply wire and not the signal wire?


I have put on the clutch, and lower servo cables, I need to lube them up asap so they add the least stress on the motor. Do I need to take off the serv cables again to see if the valve is still in there? the shell of the valve looks like its doing what its supposed to. left for idle, down at 3000, up at 8000 was from a video I saw on youtube for the same bike, the manual for inspecting it looks like a pain. Is there any way I can tell if exhaust valve in there without opening it?

I will put up pictures and maybe video in the morning

 

I have the successor of the 929, the 954.
And checking the exhaust vale is easy.
First remove the left side fairing.
then you see the only crome piece on the whole bike: the servo cap.
Remove the waterhose bracket that goes in front of it.
Remove the 2 bolts of the crome piece at 10 o'çlock and at 4 o'clock (you can acces about 4 or 5)
Then remove the other 2 bolts that hold the cables in place and remove the cables from the 'pulley'.
Remove the last 3 bolts that actually hold the valve in place.

that is it. easy peasy