Picked it up with 17k miles, pc2, steering stabilizer, full d&d(I think its too loud myself), all the plastics, +2 in the rear, and a new rear tire. Only paid 1800.

The bad: It sat for a year, the front rim has a small flat spot, the plastics need to be repainted, chain is rusted from sitting so long, the front tire needs replacing, I had to rewire the tail light, and the steering bearings are shot.

only have one pic(for now) right after I got it off my truck.

 

I just found some pics from the Craigslist ad figured I'd add them

 

cut down the monster cannon 5"

 

You got your work cut out for you. Let us know if you need any help.

 

I just got my new steering bearings in from all ***** racing. anyone ever replace these, or have any advice?

 

I just installed the All ***** Racing bearing kit on my F4...the process should be similar. Somebody else more familiar with your specific model can pipe up in case there's anything different and I'm leading you astray...

Obviously, you need to get the weight off the front end of the bike, which is usually best done with a front triple tree stand. Since you'll be removing the steering stem and races from the frame, though, that isn't going to be a solution for the whole process. I used an ATV type floor jack with a block of wood under the oil pan, but my headers are also removed. For added security, I attached a ratchet strap to the subframe and put it around a beam in my garage.

Remove the front end -- fender, wheel, forks, calipers (you may want to hang these carefully on the frame taking the weight off the lines -- I used zip ties). Remove the steering stem nut and upper fork bridge. Bend the lock washer tabs out of the grooves on the lock nut and steering adjust nut, then, assuming you don't have the special tool to remove the lock nut and steering adjust nut, place a small chisel into the grooves and tap with a hammer to loosen. Once the steering stem adjust nut is removed, the steering stem will come out of the frame. Hold on to the lower fork clamp and gently tap the top of the steering stem if the upper bearing is holding the stem in place. Once the stem is taken out, you should be able to remove the old upper bearing which will be sitting on the upper frame race.

To remove the lower bearing race, which is press fit onto the stem, I turned the stem upside down, put the chisel on the lower dust seal angled as close to the stem as possible, and hammered my way around as evenly as possible. It takes some force to remove the race, and the dust seal will be destroyed, but it doesn't matter -- your kit should include a new upper and lower dust seal. Just be careful not to hit the stem itself with the chisel.

Now that the stem is bare, it's a good time to clean it up...often these get a light coat of surface rust, especially since your bike was sitting for a while. A good metal polish and/or some 1000 grit wet sand paper works well here.

I assume that your kit is similar to mine...the lower race and bearing are not separate. When installing the lower bearing/race, you want to make sure that you are not hammering or putting pressure on the bearing itself -- only the inner portion, which is the race. I found that the best way to do this was to find a piece of pipe that matched the diameter of the inner race. In my case, this was the rung of a swing set. Sorry, kids (just kidding, it was an extra). I put the stem on a block of wood, the pipe on the inner race, and pounded it on the stem. You want to be sure the race is being pressed on evenly, and again, that your pipe is not contacting the bearing when you are pounding. Oh...make sure that the lower dust seal is placed on the very bottom of the stem, BEFORE you pound on the lower bearing/race. Because the stem gets thicker toward the bottom, I used the old race turned upside down between the pipe and race to help get the bearing seated the few final millimeters.

Pack the bearings in a quality waterproof grease, and coat the stem lightly, as well.

To remove the lower frame race, I used an extra long screwdriver though the top of the frame with the blade placed on the lip of the lower race and tapped it out. Do the same thing for the upper race, but with the screwdriver/chisel through the bottom of the frame. To install the new frame races, I used the old races turned upside down and hammered them to seat the new races. This is easy enough for the upper frame race, but the lower one is a pain. Just make sure you are working the hammer around the whole race evenly.

After the new frame races are in, you can then install the steering stem, ensuring that the lower bearings are seated and contacting the races properly. The upper bearing/race and dust seal can be pressed on the stem (this you can do with just your fingers), and the steering adjust nut finger tight to hold it in place while you check to make sure that everything looks good before torquing to spec (18 ft. lbs. for the steering stem adjust nut on the F4; yours may be different).

Hope that helps!

 

Thanks man I'm off tomorrow so I'm gonna finish up painting the fairings and give it a shot the stealership quoted me 200 for the job load of bs!

Got the base coat on a few things and primed everything but the tail and tank. I have to wait on my Honda stickers to come in to clear coat it all. figure ill give a sneak peek

 

Well i did a little work on it waiting on my wind screen to come in still but here is what i got so far.

 

Looking good so far!

 

wind screen came in today and my new chain but I'm still waiting on my sprockets.