Impeccably Clean, Low Mileage bike wont Run. No Fuel Prime. No Spark.
Making progress this is good work!!!
:wave:1. put battery on tender/trickle charger, it's slowly dying and may not be sufficient to crank bike AND provide power to ECU.
Path of electricity flow goes like this (see diagram below):
battery 12v -> ignition switch input red wire 12v -> 12v diode 9v -> pink 9v -> ECU
Hmm, your ignition-switch is completely buggered. Not only is your diode reversed with high-voltage on output pink wire, but it's got low-voltage on red input side that also powers fusebox through red/blk wire. Wiring is completely reversed! We might be able to fix by de-pinning terminals in connector, moving them around and re-soldering diode... but...
2. Easier to use unmodified ignition switch from salvage bike you got. Provided it is completely stock and hasn't been modified. Let's take look at bottom of its ignition-switch and do same measurements. Here's what we want to measure:
red ignition-switch input = 12v
blu/org output to fan = 12v
red/blk output to fusebox = 12v
pink output to ECU = 9v
(we must have 9v on pink wire for ECU to work)
3. Let's confirm this by back-probing ignition-switch connector where it plugs into harness.
red = 12v
blu/org = 12v
red/blk = 12v
pink = 9v
Last edited by dannoxyz; Apr 15, 2023 at 12:44 PM.
Here's how diode should be connected. Black-stripe faces 12v red input wire. When key ON, 12v goes across diode and 9v exits. Which is connected to pink output wire from ignition-switch to ECU. As confirmation, measure voltage on pink wire at ECU connector.
THANKS..!!
Good Call on checking the fuel system. 2 of the 4 injectors were not spraying much. Took them out and soaked, sonicated and used an injector cleaning kit. GAME ON.
Fuel rail would have worked. but def had a thin layer coating the inside.. Tank is off and Ill be pulling the bottom out from her and checking her out. I have an after market fuel pump already. Looks pretty straight forward. BUT if you have any tips. Im open.
Good Call on checking the fuel system. 2 of the 4 injectors were not spraying much. Took them out and soaked, sonicated and used an injector cleaning kit. GAME ON.
Fuel rail would have worked. but def had a thin layer coating the inside.. Tank is off and Ill be pulling the bottom out from her and checking her out. I have an after market fuel pump already. Looks pretty straight forward. BUT if you have any tips. Im open.
That diode is very much backwards and when testing it shows its reversed. How can this be on an unmolested bike? Im kind of wondering if I was told everything.
Im going to pull the diode out and replace with a new one. CORRECT direction.
Im going to pull the diode out and replace with a new one. CORRECT direction.
Most likely your buddy bought "new" ignition-switch that was tampered with.
But your wiring of switch is also reversed. You've got red battery input to ignition-switch on harness connected to pink output wire on switch. Meaning other wires on plug is also in improper positions.
Using other bike's ign-switch is easier. Swap key-cylinder and that's it
But your wiring of switch is also reversed. You've got red battery input to ignition-switch on harness connected to pink output wire on switch. Meaning other wires on plug is also in improper positions.
Using other bike's ign-switch is easier. Swap key-cylinder and that's it
Clean up fuel-system with PEA-based fuel-system cleaner. Use 1/2-bottle per full-tank to clean tank, pump, hoses, rail & injectors. Then about 1/4 per tank each month should keep everything clear.
- Red Line SI-1
- Techron Concentrate Plus
- 3M Max Strength Fuel System Cleaner #08814
- Royal Purple Max Atomizer 18000
- Gumout All-in-One (might be off list soon due to dropping levels of PEA)
- Red Line SI-1
- Techron Concentrate Plus
- 3M Max Strength Fuel System Cleaner #08814
- Royal Purple Max Atomizer 18000
- Gumout All-in-One (might be off list soon due to dropping levels of PEA)


