I do have short to ground found out that almost every pin on ecu has short to ground. I have literally measured everything and went threw every wire possible ecu is the only thing that could be wrong. Is there a stand alone ecu for the 929

 

Final-test - disconnect ECU from harness connector
1. Do you still measure short to ground at ECU connector on non-ground terminals?
2. Can turn kill switch ON and it won't blow 20a fuse now?

Probably whatever short initially blew 20a fuse on that circuit also fried ECU. Personally I would downsize to 15a fuse so it doesn't send too much current into circuit if there's a problem. Don't want to fry replacement ECU so easily. Easiest is to get replacement 929 ECU


Yes, you can replace 929 ECU with any aftermarket programmable standalone EFI system such as Accel DFI, AEM EMS, Apexi PowerFC, Austronic, Autotronic, Electromotive TEC, EMtron, FAST, FiTech, Haltech, Holley, LinkECU, Megasquirt/Microsquirt, MoTeC, ProEFI, SDS-EFI, Wolfe 3D, etc.. These systems usually come with un-terminated harness. Best to build new harness as current one is suspect anyway. You can get terminals & connectors here: https://www.corsa-technic.com/



Measure existing wire-lengths for each circuit. Then mark out layout board to make replacement harness same lengths.

 

Wow thank you so much it is for sure my computer you have been so much help! I am thinking of trying the stand alone efi because they have discontinued the ECU for the 929. But my only question would be how hard is it to map correctly or how difficult is it to tune . I'll be honest I've never done any kind tuning electronically anyway.

 

No need for aftermaket programmable EFI system unless you're doing extreme mods like supercharging or turbo... or both! It takes lots of time and money to dyno-tune and program these things. And you won't have luxury of amortising costs across millions of bikes to sell.

Ebay has plenty of used CBR929RR ECUs (I just bought 954 unit for friend).
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fro...CM%29&_sacat=0
Verify functionality warranty with vendor beforehand.

Also test your ECU connector with old unit removed and verify 100% that you don't have unwanted short on any terminal. Otherwise you risk blowing up new ECU just like old one.

 

Ok question! Will a 954 ECU work with a 929? Cause the 954 ECU are a lot cheaper and easier to find also I've heard that they have better throttle response and just basically all around better ECU than the 929 which 2000 was the first actual year that they done the. Whole fuel injection pgm-fi system on there motorcycles so as always the first year of something usually gets better over time because they've had time to work out all the bugs and glitches and stuff like that

 

Oh yes and by the way there is no other short to ground issues and when I do unplug the ECU and then turn the kill switch on there is no fuse that blows but soon as I plug in the ECU it blows instantly and I actually do use a 15 amp resettable breaker instead of blowing a bunch of fuses every time I do a test

 

Easier test is just use multimeter and measure resistance across fuse-holder terminals. Saves yourself blowing fuse each time to test.

Don't use circuit-breaker, they blow way too slowly compared to fuse. Your wires and ECU will melted by time breaker blows.

To use 954 ECU, you'll need 954 harness, 954 injectors & sensors, 954 throttle-body, 954 heads and cams. Much easier and cheaper to get 929 ECU.

 

if I put up my numbers could u help me find out why my fuse blows first I have bought a new stator and rectifier and new on/off kill switch still blows the fuse I checked all the wires and none seem burnt besides one that’s kinda burnt looking and it gose to the rectifier or the thing that controls the voltage but the it gose into the whole wiring harness and is all taped up and idk where it gose from ther and I got a new tip over sensor too still blown fuse I’m goin nuts 🥜

 

Ok I pulled the computer wires and put a 20 amp fuse in and turned key on didn’t blow till I flipped the kill switch to off then back on and it blew but then I had everything hooked up besides the red/white strip plug and it didn’t blow till I hooked it back in

See that red and white wire when not hooked up it don’t blow

 

That's power wire from battery to EFI system. Problem ISN'T any part, it's WIRING. So put every original part you replaced back on bike.

Unless it's brand-new sfactory OEM part bought from authorised dealer, then leave it on. Also remove any and all non-factory wiring and non-OEM electronic part. Like LED winkers and integrated taillights. Installing those things always causes damage that blows fuses endlessly.

Once every non-OEM part has been replaced with original OEM part, then we'll measure each and every single piece of wire in harness to find short.