929 Electrical weirdness.. stator?? r/r?? WTF??!!
Here's the skinny. Went to race the bike last week, fired up, rode to the tech table shut it off. Fired up, rode back to the pit. Attempted fire up to race, click click click..... Had a weak battery to begin with, so I jumped it. It fires up, then wont idle. kinda stumbles, I notice my gauge cluster is "glitching" out on me, bike is stumbling and dies. Jump again, same thing. while it's running the light is alternating really dim and normal brightness, kinda weird never done that before.
Replaced battery with a new one, bike fires right up, but the headlight is still going bright and dim. So I grab the trusty multimeter and notice when the head light is at normal brightness voltage is around 12.3volts, when it goes dim the voltage drops to around 11 volts.
Now I bust out the honda repair manual check the charge voltage as described in the book. Fire the bike, flip the headlight to bright, rev to 5k and hold. Check the voltage, same thing. Alternating 11-12.3(ish)
I put the multimeter on the wires for the stator with the bike off to check the ohm reading, it checks out as it should, just not sure I checked them correctly?..
Watched a youtube vid where a guy disconnected his stator and checked the pin wires that way with neg on battery ground and pos on the pins. Is this right?
Soo.... Is my problem a crapped out stator or R/R??? How do I definitively check them without throwing away a ton of $$$?
Replaced battery with a new one, bike fires right up, but the headlight is still going bright and dim. So I grab the trusty multimeter and notice when the head light is at normal brightness voltage is around 12.3volts, when it goes dim the voltage drops to around 11 volts.
Now I bust out the honda repair manual check the charge voltage as described in the book. Fire the bike, flip the headlight to bright, rev to 5k and hold. Check the voltage, same thing. Alternating 11-12.3(ish)
I put the multimeter on the wires for the stator with the bike off to check the ohm reading, it checks out as it should, just not sure I checked them correctly?..
Watched a youtube vid where a guy disconnected his stator and checked the pin wires that way with neg on battery ground and pos on the pins. Is this right?
Soo.... Is my problem a crapped out stator or R/R??? How do I definitively check them without throwing away a ton of $$$?
Start by visually inspecting the r/r and harness connector.
If you see any sign of heat damage, that's probably the issue.
if the r/r is an oem epoxy-fill without a heatsink,
that's another indicator.
If the r/r checks out visually, then it's time to start doing a more through diagnostic.
Here are a couple of links to get an over-view of the electrical/charging system...
http://www.electrexworld.co.uk/pdfs/...P-PMG-&-RR.pdf
http://www.electrosport.com/technical-resources/
Charging System Diagnostics - Rectifier/Regulator Upgrade - Triumph Forum: Triumph Rat Motorcycle Forums
Hope this helps, Ern
If you see any sign of heat damage, that's probably the issue.
if the r/r is an oem epoxy-fill without a heatsink,
that's another indicator.
If the r/r checks out visually, then it's time to start doing a more through diagnostic.
Here are a couple of links to get an over-view of the electrical/charging system...
http://www.electrexworld.co.uk/pdfs/...P-PMG-&-RR.pdf
http://www.electrosport.com/technical-resources/
Charging System Diagnostics - Rectifier/Regulator Upgrade - Triumph Forum: Triumph Rat Motorcycle Forums
Hope this helps, Ern
Its your r/r. Replace it with a factory unit. The 929's r/r is a good design, not like the older bike designs. They last a long time, but do have a lifespan. I like to replace the stator and r/r together, just to make sure the system is good for awhile. I don't want to bounce charging problems back and forth between the two units.
Here is a pic of it from a tail removal write up I did:

The harness is really long. Never had a burning connector problem, but take a look anyway when you replace it.
Here is a pic of it from a tail removal write up I did:

The harness is really long. Never had a burning connector problem, but take a look anyway when you replace it.
Last edited by 74demon; May 20, 2013 at 09:36 AM.
I'd use OEM. You can find cheaper ones make in all kinds of countries, but the point is to use the best made part to make the system solid. There is a higher chance of failure with a cheaper made part.
Honda Motorcycle Parts & ATV Accessories OEM Dirt Sport Bike Scooter Cruiser Touring Parts Off Road Motorcycles ATVs Starter Motors
and
Honda Motorcycle Parts & ATV Accessories OEM Dirt Sport Bike Scooter Cruiser Touring Parts Off Road Motorcycles ATVs Starter Motors
Honda Motorcycle Parts & ATV Accessories OEM Dirt Sport Bike Scooter Cruiser Touring Parts Off Road Motorcycles ATVs Starter Motors
and
Honda Motorcycle Parts & ATV Accessories OEM Dirt Sport Bike Scooter Cruiser Touring Parts Off Road Motorcycles ATVs Starter Motors
latest update..
put the bike back together, fired it up and checked the voltage from the stator. BINGO!
the three phases read: 3v 0v 3v.
from what i've seen online, it should be around 14 at idle at upwards of 50volts revved, voltage never changed no matter what the rpm.
new Ricks stator is on it's way..
74Demon, thanks for the heads up for OEMcycle.. theyre by far the least expensive place i've found..
put the bike back together, fired it up and checked the voltage from the stator. BINGO!
the three phases read: 3v 0v 3v.
from what i've seen online, it should be around 14 at idle at upwards of 50volts revved, voltage never changed no matter what the rpm.
new Ricks stator is on it's way..
74Demon, thanks for the heads up for OEMcycle.. theyre by far the least expensive place i've found..
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Rockshoxtora
General Tech
4
Jul 30, 2010 10:02 AM




