Rear Brake Question
#1
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I've noticed on my 96 CBR900 that it takes a GREAT deal of pressure of lock up the rear wheel. While some of you may be wondering whey I'd want to do that. . .I don't. Problem is that I'm use to my Kawaski's rather agressive rear brake (about 30%) and while the Honda seems to slow down a bit if I only use the rear, I would estimate that it only accounts for about 10% of the total breaking power. I have have to put some serious pressure on the brake to get it to the bike to slow. Any ideas on what I need to look at? I have everything but the master cylinder on order from bike bandit right now.
Thanks,
Ken
Thanks,
Ken
#2
#4
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I sold the Kawi so don't' know for sure. My CRB has a 190 dunlop tire on the back, but I don't think it's a matter of tire traction. The brake itself just doesn't seem to apply much pressure to the pads. If bikebandit manages to fill my order, I'll change he caliper and hope it makes a difference. If not, I'll see if I can find a larger master cylinder. In any case, I really feel that the rear brake just isn't what it should be.
#5
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ORIGINAL: Draco88
The brake itself just doesn't seem to apply much pressure to the pads. In any case, I really feel that the rear brake just isn't what it should be.
The brake itself just doesn't seem to apply much pressure to the pads. In any case, I really feel that the rear brake just isn't what it should be.
I'm going to replace the pads and drain/replace the brake fluid. I think I'll also order speed bleeders. Anyone buy these for the 900? Good idea to make this purchase? Probably get a mini vac too while I'm at it.
#6
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I just recently "rebuilt" my rear brakes from not functioning at all to like new with EBC HH pads, stainless lines and a mighy vac'd bleed job and it also takes quite a bit of pressure to lock up my rear tire (180). Both of my friends bikes that I drive regularly, 00 ZX-9R and 05 R6, lock up the back tire very easily but another friends 01 929 is exactly the same as mine.
I kind of prefer it because it gives me more travel in the pedal before lockup so it is easier to modulate the rear brake and also much harder to accidently lock it up.
I kind of prefer it because it gives me more travel in the pedal before lockup so it is easier to modulate the rear brake and also much harder to accidently lock it up.
#7
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Proportioning valve won't work in this situation since the front and rear brakes on bikes (except for a small number) are seperate. The right hand works the twin-rotor front brakes and the right foot operates the single-rotor rear brake. In a car, solid idea.
Anyhow, what pads are you running? I've got a stock braking system with EBC double-H sintered pads front & rear. HUGE difference over the stockers. They make the stock pads seem like bars of soap. I don't do track riding, but I do (well, used to when the bike was running) a decent amount of canyon riding and I'm on that back brake constantly to modulate like trail braking in a car. I can lock the rear no problem. Street or canyon, if I need to be dumping a lot of speed in a hurry, that rear is zigzagging behind me while I play the joyful role of three-dimensional traction control and twin-brake system ABS. I can probably lock the rear up at 120mph if that were my goal.
Get the EBC HH pads. Those are incredible.
P.S. I run the Metzeler M1s front and rear. I used to be able to drift the stock rear Bridgestones (even a brand new one) just with the throttle on corner exit. The above post is regarding the experiences with the grippier M1s.
Anyhow, what pads are you running? I've got a stock braking system with EBC double-H sintered pads front & rear. HUGE difference over the stockers. They make the stock pads seem like bars of soap. I don't do track riding, but I do (well, used to when the bike was running) a decent amount of canyon riding and I'm on that back brake constantly to modulate like trail braking in a car. I can lock the rear no problem. Street or canyon, if I need to be dumping a lot of speed in a hurry, that rear is zigzagging behind me while I play the joyful role of three-dimensional traction control and twin-brake system ABS. I can probably lock the rear up at 120mph if that were my goal.
Get the EBC HH pads. Those are incredible.
P.S. I run the Metzeler M1s front and rear. I used to be able to drift the stock rear Bridgestones (even a brand new one) just with the throttle on corner exit. The above post is regarding the experiences with the grippier M1s.
#8
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+1 on the ****ty performance of the rear brake on my 99. However, under hard braking at the track, it is plenty as the back is barely on the ground anyway, so under those conditions it's probably perfect, for some reason I cant bring myself to NOT use the rear brake at the track.
#9
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I'm about to change the pad, but made the mistake of buying Honda OEM pads for it. I'll let eveyone know if I percieve any difference because someone told me that the pads could be glazed which would cause exactly what I'm experiencing. As far as the track is concerened, I've never been. I use both the front and rear when coming to a stop from high speeds so the rear is pretty darn important (not to mention the car I nearly ran into the back of because I'm still use to the rear brakes of my old Kawasaki). In any case, I'll look up the other pads and give them a try if the honda pads don't make a difference.
#10
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